How to make Tapestry crochet in turned rows.

Last month I looked at how to make Tapestry crochet in the round and how to stop the pattern from creeping towards the right. Wouldn't it be so much easier to work in turned rows? Well, of course! But, the fabric has to be made from the front only; or so I thought!

 

Some crocheters do in fact make this crochet in rows, but as you know working Dc(UK, Sc-US) in turned rows creates a different look to working in the round. It makes the design messy and indistinct.

Working to and fro in Dc is sometimes called Rose stitch. In this sample I have worked half into back loop only and half in both loops.

  

The solution was given to me by Anna (aka Mmatildas Virstad). Forward facing rows are made as standard, but reverse facing rows are made with inverse stitches. These are also known as Purl stitches.

 

To make an inverse Double crochet;

Insert the hook into the next stitch from back to front,

Yarn-Under (or Yarn-Over) the hook and pull up a loop, (this makes the post)

Yarn-Under (or Yarn-Over) the hook and pull through both loops on the hook. (this makes the top loop)

 

I have seen both yarn-over (YO) and yarn-under (YU) used to make an inverse stitch. As I discovered last month, it does make a difference! So which should we do?

 

Working in the round, I discovered that, working in the back-loop-only and making a YU to pull up the first loop and make the post creates a little X rather than a V shape. But the YU that finishes the stitch made the stitches stack neatly on top of each other. Is the same thing true when working in rows?

 

For my first sample I worked the odd numbered rows as standard. For the even rows, the inverse stitches are made with Yarn-under.

As a result for the standard Dc the tops of the stitches lean down to the left, but on the inverse stitches they lean to the right. This makes the columns of stitches zigzag. The Yarn-under also makes the post of each stitch look different. They lean more to the right and look more like an X than a V.  

 

Now I have made all the stitches with only Yarn-over. The only difference is that the posts of the Dc and inverse Dc look more similar. But the columns still zigzag.

 

I wondered if it would make a difference if I made a Yarn-under for the top loop of the standard Dc only. It seems to make no difference at all!

 

If I was being truly scientific there are many variations I should try, but for thoroughness I felt that I aught to try to Yarn-under only on both rows. While the posts of the stitches look very similar, they are now like mirror images. The Dc slope to the right, while the inverse Dc slope to the left.

 

I have concluded that the best result is achieved by Yarn-overs on both rows. This is how it looks when made through both loops. I find it rather messy. It looks much better when made in Back-loop only.

 

Sometimes Waistcoat stitch is used. I used the inverse Dc stitches on the odd numbered rows. The difference is that the Dc is made into the centre of the stitch below. The V's of the post stitches appear to stack one on another. I have never made this stitch before. The overall look is better, the columns are straighter. But, the fabric is thicker and the swatch is shorter.

 

To make a comparison with my very first swatch, I have remade it with the Inverse Yarn-over stitches on the even numbered rows. The fabric is taller, thinner and softer and the design is clearer.

 

I would be remiss if I did not remind you that an alternative is to work from right to left only. Don't forget to Yarn-under for the top loops and work in back-loop only to create the straight columns. For this sample I began and ended each row with a slip stitch, catching in the second colour. Either you can leave the ends as tassels or catch them in with some kind of binding or edging stitches.

 

I think I have done enough experimenting for a while. It's almost as boring to read about as it is to do! But these purl stitches are a useful stitch to have in our crochet toolbox. There are other ways to create Tapestry crochet which I am still discovering and being surprised by. You'll find them on Anna's blog!

Next month I think we should learn something new! 

 

Fastening off... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yarn Under vs Yarn Over

     

Honestly, I have no idea where to begin. This month's post is an accumulation of ideas that all came together almost by accident. There has been a three way conversation, with emails pinging across continents. So hold on to your hats and don't forget to comment if you have more to add to the conversation!

    Many moons ago the lady I choose to refer to as, The Researcher, asked me to investigate 'yarn-over vs yarn-under'. At that time I had nothing useful to say. Time goes by, and I have become fascinated by the Tapestry crochet that Anna, aka 'Mmatildas virkstad', creates and the Scandinavian tradition that inspires her work. Tapestry crochet is something that (I thought) I could not do.

 

    Before we go any further, let's make sure we all under stand the concept of yarn-over and yarn-under!

 When we make a double-crochet (Sc-US), we pull up a loop in the next stitch. The yellow loop, shown here, becomes the post of the new stitch. The green loop, which completed the last stitch becomes the top of the new stitch.

At this point we pull through a new loop which becomes the top of our next stitch. In this image I am creating a 'yarn-over'. The yarn comes from behind the hook, it goes up over the back of the hook and down over the front. Then round the bottom to the back again. This is so basic that we do it instinctively with no thought at all!

To create a 'yarn-under', the yarn still comes from the back of the hook, but this time it goes down the back and up the front before being pulled through the stitch. This creates the post of the stitch.

There is a slight difference the second time we pull through a loop. Now the yarn is already at the bottom of the hook, so the the yarn is simply brought up in front of the hook and pulled through.

 

    Now back to Tapestry crochet! 

When you work Tapestry crochet you must work holding the right side facing forwards at all times so that you can carry the unused colours at the back of the work. This means you must work in the round. 

All my swatches, from here on, are worked in the round but I have added a 4 chain at the end of each round. I have cut through the chain to create a flat fabric. This technique is referred to as 'Steeking' in knitting.

 

    When you work Double-crochet (UK, Sc-US, Fast maska- Swedish!) in rounds the stitch pattern quickly starts to lean to the right. How is this to be overcome?

Anna suggested that I should try working into the back-loop-only to achieve a more upright design. What you may not see from these images is that, by working into the back-loop-only the swatch becomes taller and the fabric has more drape.

 

I had it in my head, that working 'yarn-under' stitches would create a more upright pattern. As we have seen, in each Dc there are two opportunities to choose yarn-under or yarn-over. I worked up a swatch using yarn-under on both the post and the top of the stitch. I am convinced that the stitches stand a little straighter. You will notice that the stitches appear more like little X's than V's.

Just as before, I worked exactly the same, with yarn-under both for the post and top loop, but this time working into the back-loop-only. This is the best result so far.

  

You may have read that yarn-under creates a stiffer fabric which is shorter and can be useful when making amigurumi.  This is because the yarn takes a shorter path around the hook, and therefore you pull through less yarn for each stitch. With little effort, it is easy to increase the height of your stitches by pulling up taller stitches. The Dc still retains the crossed appearance because of the yarn-under technique. Rather like knitting, it tends to add a twist to your working yarn, rather than loosen it in the way that we crocheters are used to.

  

What, I wonder, is causing the more upright design? Is it the 'x' of the post, or is it working yarn-under for the top of the stitch? Let's be scientific! I worked another swatch using yarn-under for the post, creating that little 'x', but yarn-over for the top loop. This is not the solution!

Here it is again worked into the back-loop-only. Possibly it is less successful than the green version?

Let us try a yarn-under on the top-loop-only. Is it a little straighter or am I fooling myself? 

Working the same, into the back-loop-only once again. I am convinced this is the solution. I shall test it with a larger sample worked, yarn-under on the top-loop-only and into the back-loop-only!

I am happy with this. What do you think?

I still have a lot to learn about tapestry crochet. On my squared paper this design was completely symmetrical. Rounder more curvy designs will work better than angular ones, says Anna. I need to be more Art Nouveau and less Art Deco!

  

It is only now that Anna tells me, it is actually possible to work tapestry crochet in turned rows! Guess what I will be experimenting with for the rest of the month?

 

Fastening off...

 

    

 

Live loop Crochet Cables

I've had a revelation!

I have been crocheting for over ten years and must be, by any definition, an experienced crocheter. And yet, the foundation of my crochet world has just shook. In my rush to learn everything it seems I have missed a basic understanding of crochet anatomy. I'm talking about the Live Loop or Golden Loop.

 

Let me explain!

When we are crocheting a Double Crochet (Sc-US) we begin with a loop on the hook. This loop will become the top of our next Dc.

 

Then we pull up a loop in the next stitch. This is the golden loop. This becomes the post of our Dc. The height of this loop determines the height of our finished stitch.

Next we have to join the post and top loops to complete the stitch. To do this we 'yarn over' and pull that loop through both the post-loop and top-loop.

Our Dc is completed. And the loop on the hook becomes the top of the next stitch.

 

But, what if we don't make that final stage?

What if we pull that final loop through just the post-loop?

We have created a Live Loop. A stitch which is still 'live' because it is not completed. 

 

Look we can create a whole row of 'live-loops'...

Then remove the hook and finish each in turn simply by pulling the live-loop through the preceding stitch.

 

Sometimes the best ideas are the simplest. Grounded in a thorough understanding of the physics of crochet, Sue Perez, aka Mrs Micawber, has found a way to create cable stitches using live-loops. She published her book, Live Loop Cables in Crochet, in 2020 and I have been putting off learning this skill for no good reason I can think of! Sue Knits and crochets, I think this idea is derived from her knowledge of both crafts. I am not a knitter and I am a little over awed by the whole idea!

 

Fortunately, Sue has made this handy video for us. She explains it all so much better than I ever can!

 

I made this using the Practice Swatch.

Working in the round, from the front only, the cables are straight forward and prove no difficulty.

 

Block One: Straight Cables

 

Working in rows, from the back and front, the cables are a little different and require more attention. There seems to be a lot of information at the beginning of the book which you might find off putting. Don't panic! The stitch patterns are organised in a systematic way. If you work through them, one by one, your skills will develop in easy steps. At the start of each new design you are told what you will learn and where, in the book, you will find the technical information.

 

Block Two: Meeting in the Middle

 

There are 25 stitch designs which each form a patchwork block. You can use the blocks to make the scarf in the pattern section. Or you could make one of the other ten patterns which are varied and interesting.

Block Three: Travelling Cables

In my first attempt at these cables I failed miserably! There is a lot to take on board, and, like a bad workman I blamed my tools. Sue recommends we begin with a worsted weight yarn and at least a 5mm hook. As a non wool user the right kind of yarn is hard to find. The samples I made here use VeganYarn.Co.UK's Chunky weight Cotton Bouclé.

We also need a stitch marker to park the live loops on. Sue recommends a hair grip bent in a certain way to form a sort of closed 'U' shape. Once I had the right tools and watched Sue's videos, I found I could finally make progress!

What's so good about live loop cables? Well for one thing they can be made to bend in any direction. They are soft and flexible. They can cross and create all of the classic knitted Aran designs. Unlike the post stitch versions they're not heavy or stiff. The cables are, in effect, made on the surface of your fabric, so they don't leave those little holes in the fabric that happen when working with post stitches.

Block Four: Raised Cables with Bobbles

Sue's book is still available, so I suggest you grab a copy quick. If you have it already and like me didn't initially make progress. Go on, give it another go!! My advice for using this book would be to gather together some Aran/Worsted weight yarn, large hooks and the stitch markers. Then read through the Chapter on Necessary terms before skipping ahead to the practise swatch. Work your way systematically through the stitch patterns. As you progress you will find your understanding growing. From time to time you may want to refer back to the other information in the book, when Sue directs you to. By the time you get to the projects you will be an expert!

Block Five: Curved Cables with Popcorns

 

At the start I struggled to make the most simple of cables. Indeed, experienced Live-Loopers will spot mistakes in these blocks! But, with each mistake my understanding increases and with each new challenge my skill level rises.

 

Block Six: Honeycomb Cables

 

It has reminded me of what it was like to learn to crochet in the first place. All of the things I once struggled with; like how to hold the hook and yarn, I no longer give a seconds thought. 

 

Block Seven: Flat Rope Cables

 

I have been recording my progress on my Ravelry page. Besides, I will continue to add my progress to this blog post, but I expect you will be wanting a new post next month, so progress may be intermittent! 

Block Eight: Ropes and Antlers

 

Fastening off...

 

  

Block Nine: Simple Crossed Cables

Block Ten: Offset Crossed Cables

Block Eleven: Double Helix

Block Twelve: Twisted Twist