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Tuesday, 27 August 2019

Basketweave Variations for Crochet


Aren't we always looking for something a little different? This week I've been playing about with some ideas, all variations on a common stitch, Basketweave.
Last Christmas I made this tea cosy for one of my sisters. You can find the pattern here. It uses the standard stitch. Let's start by looking at that.
It's made using 'Raised' or 'Post' stitches. If you're not sure how to make these stitches have a look at this post.
In this example I'm working into a base row of Treble stitches (DC-USA). I've chosen to show this with a multiple of 3 stitches, but you can choose any multiple. I've also shown it with one stitch at either side to act as a selvage. If you were working in the round you would omit these stitches. The American Terminology is shown in blue. [All my samples are made using Scheepjes Softfun Denim, a variegated cotton yarn.]
This is what the stitch diagram might look like.

The instructions would read as follows:
Chain 22 sts.
Row1. Tr (Dc) in fourth ch from the hook and in each ch to the end. Turn
Row2. Ch2, skip first st. *Front Post (FP)Trx3 (FPDc), Back Post (BP)Trx3 (BPDc), repeat from* to last st. Tr (Dc) in last st. Turn
Row3. Ch2, skip first st. *BPTrx3 (BPDc), FPTrx3 (FPDc), repeat from* to last st. Tr (Dc) in last st. Turn.
Row4. Repeat row3.
Row5&6. Repeat row2.
Repeat rows3 to 6 to desired length.

Variation 1. Overlay Basketweave.
The woven effect in this sample is achieved with overlay stitches. (Front Loop and Back Loop stitches abbreviated to FL and BL.) If you are unsure about how to make any of the stitches in this sample this post may help. I've written the pattern as if it was made in 2 colours so that you can understand the construction a little better. I prefer it in just one colour.

The instructions would read:
Chain 21.
Row1. Dc (SC) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] FLDc (FLSc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *FLDTrx3 (FLTr)[DoubleTreble in front loop of row1 sts below], BLDcx3 (BLSc), repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st. Turn.
Row4. Ch1, FLDc (FLSc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row5. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *BLDcx3 (BLSc), FLDTrx3 (FLTr) [DTr in front loop of row2 sts below], repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st.
Row6. Repeat row4.
Row7. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *FLDTrx3 (FLTr)[DTr in front loop of row4 sts below], BLDcx3 (BLSc), repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st. Turn.
Row8. Repeat row4.
Repeat rows5 to 8 to desired length.

Variation 2. Basket Stitch.
 
The stitch looks slightly different on each side. I prefer the way it looks on this side, but it's up to you! I also think it looks better in more than one colour. The way I have written the pattern means that you can change colour at the end of each even row without having to fasten off each time. The long stitches are spike stitches. If you are unsure how to make these stitches this post may help.
For help with changing colour try this post.

The instructions.
With ColourA Chain 21.
Row1. Htr (Hdc) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, Htr (Hdc) in first st, *Htrx3 (Hdc), skipping the next three row2 sts, Htr in row1 sts below x3, repeat from* to last st, Htr in last st, Turn.
Row4. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to end. Change to Col.A in last st. Turn.
Row5. Ch1,  Htr (Hdc) in first st, *skipping the next three row4 sts, Htr in row3 sts below x3, Htrx3 (Hdc), repeat from* to last st, Htr in last st, Turn.
Row6. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Repeat rows3 to 6 to desired length.

Variation 3. Woven spike stitch.
This sample also looks slightly different on each side. The spike stitches are more like V's on the 'back'. While it's very attractive I prefer this side which makes me think of woven cane seating. You could work the spikes in sets of three like the last variation but I thought you might like to see an alternative!

Instructions:
With ColourA Chain21.
Row1. Dc (SC) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Row4. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in first st, *skipping next row3 st, Dc (Sc) in the stitch three rows below (between the stitches as in detail below), Dc (Sc) in next row3 st, repeat from* to last st, Dc (Sc) in last st. Turn.
Row5. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.A in last st. Turn.
Row6. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in first st, *Dc (Sc) in next row5 st, skipping next row5 st, Dc (Sc) in the stitch three rows below,  repeat from* to last st, Dc (Sc) in last st. Turn. 
Row7. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn. 
Repeat rows4 to 7 to desired length.

Writing crochet instructions is not easy for a dyslexic, so I'm off to bang my head on the wall for a little light relief! Please feel free to point out any discrepancies so that I can correct them.😵
Fastening Off...


Tuesday, 13 August 2019

How to Mend Crochet

Look what my darling dogs have done! So this weeks blog is all about mending. My dastardly darlings must have had a lot of fun when they played tug of war with my Spirits of Life Wrap. I was very good, I didn't scream at them, I didn't panic, I didn't even put them on half rations. Instead I tried to see it as a learning opportunity!
I remember seeing a post about mending crochet by LillaBjorn there was also a post by Robyn Chachula. Being dyslexic I read both but failed to understand them! Doesn't that sound like a cue for a photo tutorial in which we both learn together?

Having consulted my Ravelry Project page for the hook size and with pattern in hand I'm ready to start.
Here goes then, lets start with one of the smallest rips first. A row of Treble stitches followed by a row of Double Crochet (Dc, Sc-USA). I'm going to run a thread through the base of the upper row of stitches, the navy row. I'll remove this later.
 Now I have to undo the stitches from the middle outwards, leaving the threads to weave in. I'm a bit anxious about this bit!
I can now work the Treble stitches from right to left. I am joining my new yarn into the loop I've parked on a stitch marker.
And needle joined to the other side.
(Because this wrap is made in rows I need to turn it over for the next row.) Turning over I can again join my new yarn to the stitch parked on the second marker. Now I'm following the instructions...Make one stitch...
Using a smaller size hook, thread it through the bottom of the stitch above (where the yarn is threaded,)...
Grab the loop and pull it through.
After making each stitch pull the loop through, as before. It's very fiddly but it works!
Remove the thread you added right at the beginning.
This is what it looks like finished. Not perfect but compared with what we started with I'm really pleased.

Here's what the other little tear looks like when mended.

Now I've got the confidence to tackle that huge rip along the seam.
According to my pattern this is two rows of Double crochet (Sc-USA). The corner-to-corner panel is then worked into the top row of double crochet stitches.
 
There are two tiny breaks in the corner-to-corner work. I am going to do my best to reinforce this with a yarn thread of the same colour.
That done I can carefully remove the old damaged grey stitches leaving enough thread to weave in later.
The first row of grey stitches is complete.
The second row was originally joined to the corner-to corner work with slip stitches so I have to pull the loop of each stitch through the old loops of the corner-to-corner work.

Oh No! I've only got that scary corner-to-corner section left to mend. I've only ever used the corner-to-corner technique on this project. Deep breath Rach!
 
OK so lets just go one step at a time. As the name suggests it's worked diagonally. So first of all I've got to figure out which direction to work in.
 
Like this...
 
I'm going to mark all the stitches that the grey yarn joins to. I'll use the same yellow thread from before and then remove the damaged section.
 
Now that the damage has been removed it doesn't look as scary. All I have to do is join the new yarn in the stitch I've parked on the stitch marker. Then continue working in the diagonal rows. When I get to the bottom of the row I slip stitch to the base.
When I get to the top, I slip a loop through the 'yarn-marked' stitch on the right side of the cell.(1). 
Then I need to get to the left side of the cell. So I place a slip stitch in the top of each treble stitch (Dc-USA) across the top of the cell,(2,3&4).
 Then another slip stitch in the 3-chain loop.(5).
This leaves a loop on the hook which I can pull through the next 'yarn-marked' stitch.(6)
 

 
I hope you've been following so far because I have now run into a problem. When I get to the left hand side I need to feed 3 chain stitches through the 3 navy stitches. But that leaves my working yarn too far away from my hook.
 
So the only way I can think of to do this is to work out how much yarn I need to finish the entire area and pull it all through those three stitches. If you can figure out another solution please let me know!!
 
I have to do that with each of the navy cells all the way to the top. Fortunately it's not as hard as it sounds.
Et Viola!!
 

That was an awfully long post, so well done if you stayed with me to the end. The important thing to take away with you is this. When the worst happens there is a solution. Just take it one step at a time!