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Tuesday 27 February 2018

Crochet Tips: Linked Stitches Part 2

In this second post on Linked stitches I will be showing you how to join linked stitches in the round. I have two methods to offer up. The first is by using whip stitches to imitate the horizontal bars. The second is by working over the initial chain stitches as you create a final stitch.
I've just finished the Janelle cardigan from Dora Ohrenstein's "Top-Down Crochet Sweaters". So this is a good excuse to show it off. (Sorry about the model!)
Whip Stitch Join
The first join I have for you is worked after the crocheting is finished. I've worked my example in two colours so you can more clearly see what is happening. (These are Trebletreble Linked stitches.[Uk])
Join the end of each row with Slip stitches as normal. You'll see how this leaves a gap in the Linked Stitches.
Using a tapestry needle, join the yarn on the wrong side and bring the needle through just above the first horizontal bar on the right.
Take the yarn across the join and back down under the horizontal bar on the left.

Bring the yarn behind the join and back up just above the next horizontal bar.
Repeat for each pair of horizontal bars.
Work the yarn through stitches on the reverse until the next row of linked stitches.
Join As you Go
After finishing the last stitch, pull up a loop in each horizontal bar as usual.
Pull up a loop in slip st join at base, as indicated.
Put hook down under 1st bar to the left of the starting chains, as indicated.
Yarn over hook and pull the loop thru to the front and thru the 1st two loops on the hook.
Put the hook down under the 2nd bar, Yarn over the hook and pull up thru the next two loops on hook.
Repeat this process for the last bar.
Finally put the hook thru at the top of the stitch, Yarn over the hook and pull up thru the final loops on hook.

I used this join for the sleeves on the Janelle Cardigan. The whip stitch join would probably be better for a join which is more visible.
 
Don't forget to say Hi if you drop by!

Tuesday 20 February 2018

Crochet Tips: Linked Stitches Part1


Lately I've been working with Linked Stitches and when searching for information I've found it to be very varied and confusing. I've also seen them called Connected Stitches. So here's my attempt at a definitive guide!

I foolishly assumed this was a relatively new stitch but then I found it in a reprint of the Nineteenth Century "Encyclopedia of Needlework" by Therese De Dillmont. Her instructions were confusing to say the least.
Although I could probably talk for hours about this stitch I will try to be succinct!

The important things to know are:
  1. This stitch is like a vertical Tunisian stitch.
  2. This stitch has a right and a wrong side, or rather it looks very different from the back. So if you want all your stitches facing the same way you need a work around.
  3. You can link any stitch from Htr (Hdc-USA) and upwards in height. [Below are, Htr, Tr, Dtr.]
  4. You'll need to use a much larger hook size than usual.
  5. Everyone avoids telling you how to work in continuous rounds. Don't worry we'll be covering that in Part2 next week!
 Let's start with how to keep all your stitches facing the same way. In Robyn Chachula's "Crochet Stitches-Visual Encyclopedia", she suggests using an alternate row of Front Loop Dc (Sc-USA). This gives a nice extra horizontal line.
Dora Ohrenstein in her fabulous book "Top-Down Crochet Sweaters", uses Htr (Hdc-USA).
Here's how to make a Linked Stitch. 
Let's make a Trtr (Dtr-USA) (I'm working into a row of Foundation Dc) 
All rows start like this. Don't turn at the end of the previous row. Chain 4 sts. 

 
Pull up a loop in the back loop of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th chain from the hook. 
 Now turn and pull up a loop in the first stitch. 
 
Yarn Over (YO) hook and pull thru the first 2 sts on the hook.
 Repeat the last action 3 more times. [1st St made] 

For each consequent stitch: 
Pull up a loop in each of the three horizontal bars, from top to bottom. Place the hook down thru the horizontal bar, YO hook and pull up a loop.

Pull up a loop in the next stitch.
YO hook and pull a loop thru the first 2 loops on hook as before.
Repeat the last action three more times. [2nd stitch made]
 

To create a Dtr start with 3 chain sts, pulling up loops in the 2nd, and 3rd chain, but otherwise follow the instructions above.
A Tr starts with 2 chain sts, pulling up a single loop in the 2nd chain only, but otherwise follow the instructions above.
A Htr is just a tiny bit different.
Start with 2 chain sts. Pull up a loop in the 2nd chain st, and the next st. 3 loops on hook.

YO and pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

For all consequent stitches, pull up a loop in the horizontal bar and another in the next stitch.


YO hook and pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

Come back next week to find out how to join stitches in continuous rounds. I've got two different methods for you to try.
And don't forget to say Hi! if you pop by!

 

Tuesday 6 February 2018

Free Pattern: TyreTread Doormat.


 

I promised a tenuous link to spring cleaning! At this time of year my doormats always look frightful. I've failed to find a mat that will go in the washing machine so I decided to make one!
  Once again I'm using Fred Aldous Bakers Twine. I've chosen the single colour  this time. It's a little softer than the 'Tri-ply'. There are plenty of colours to choose from. This one is Eton Blue.
 The stitch pattern I've gone for goes by a number of names. I'm calling it tyre tread because of the bold lines it makes. It's such a simple stitch and yet so fascinating. In the pattern I've suggested you use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch in the row to make turning easier. The pattern I've given you makes a doormat size mat. 
 I've finished it with Treble edging just to make it look a little neater and a little 'less-trip-overable'. (Suggestions for a better word to use here, on a postcard please!) It would also make a great bath mat at the same size. If you went bigger of course you could make a rug. To make it more durable try something like Pepperell Bonnie Macrame cord; either in 3mm or 6mm. Last time I looked they sold it in white and black at Fred Aldous. If you're in the States of course you'll have no trouble getting it!

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Finished Size: 49 x 65 cm
Gauge: 13 Treble Sts x 7.5 rows = 10cm
UK Terminology:
Ch     - Chain
Htr   - Half Treble
NJ    - Needle Join 
Slst  - Slip Stitch
St    - Stitch
Tr    - Treble
 

You will need:
5 cones of Fred Aldous Bakers Twine 100M
1 bottle of Rico Sock Stop
4.5mm (No7) Hook
Large Tapestry Needle
2x Stitch Markers of different colours.

Chain 96 Sts.

Row 1.   Slst in 2nd chain from hook. Mark this st.
            (Htr in next st, Slst in next st) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.
Row 2.   Ch2, [counts as first htr]. Mark this st.
            (Slst in next htr, Htr in next slst) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.
Row 3.   Slst in next htr, Mark this st.
            (Htr in next slst, Slst in next Htr) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.
Row 4-80. Repeat  rows 2 and 3.
Row 81.  Ch3, or Starting Tr in first st, Tr in each st across. Fasten off.
Row 82.  Ch3, or Standing Tr in first st, Tr in each st across.
    Fasten off and weave in ends.
There should be no need to block your work but if required try ironing on reverse with a steam iron.
Now find a safe flat place or a board to put your mat on while you apply the Sock Stop, away from little fingers or inquisitive pets! Place dots of Sock Stop on raised areas of stitching. Dots work better than lines, they are less likely to peel off when the mat stretches.
Leave overnight to dry.