Plastic Free Vegan Yarn.

I have become increasingly concerned about the amount of plastic I've been having to throw away. I don't litter so all that plastic that's getting into the sea, that's not down to me, right? 

Wrong! It turns out that some of the plastics I'd been dutifully washing, drying and recycling were being sent to other countries, from where it was finding it's way into the environment. Then I heard that every time I wash my clothes I'm washing small plastic fibres away with the water. There is even plastic in the air that I'm breathing.
Why is that scary? It has been calculated that only 9% of all plastic ever produced has been recycled. It can take a thousand years for plastic to decompose.
So I've been doing my best to reduce the amount of plastic I use. It's not easy and its very frustrating. As with all environmental issues there are no easy solutions. My hobby is an example.

I don't often use wool. Besides any of the emotive issues that might immediately leap to mind there are many environmental reasons why wool is a really bad idea! (Wool also brings me out in a rash!) Wool is undoubtedly an amazing material. It has big shoes to fill. So when you're looking for an alternative it really isn't easy. My favourite yarns are all cotton acrylic. The acrylic fibre helps to soften and lighten the cotton. It also helps to lock the stitches together. Unfortunately acrylic, nylon and polyester are all petro-chemical plastics.
So I did a search for plastic free vegan yarn. It was really really really frustrating! Eventually I found out an awful lot about plant based yarns. But I was left with one big question, what are they like to use?

Here is my mini guide to plastic free vegan yarn. I've got my hands on some yarns to play with. So that we can compare them I've made a swatch of each using my version of Herringbone Half Treble Stitch.

Cotton,
 We're all familiar with cotton. It's a heavy yarn. It uses a lot of land and water to produce it and often a lot of fertiliser. So look for organic and recycled yarn for the greenest credentials and of course anything which is unbleached and undyed. The yarn shown is Scheepjes new organic cotton.

Mercerised Cotton, 
Cotton finished with a caustic alkali process which improves the dye uptake and yarn strength, reducing shrinkage and adding a lustre. Unfortunately not high on the sustainability scale!

Linen,
Made from the flax plant it requires quite a lot of processing. The short rough fibres are dry spun, whilst the long smooth fibres are wet spun. I've read that it improves with washing.

My sample is actually a cotton linen mix, it's a little rough to the touch. I can't tell you the yardage but I can tell you it's 14WPI. From experience I'd call it Aran or Worsted weight as I used it to make a jacket. (If you don't know what a WPI is this post may help.)

Hemp, 
A sustainable product with long fibres. 

For this sample think garden string. My sample is 50g, 42m. 10WPI. You could use it for trivets, baskets, mats or macrame.

I was a bit disappointed with this yarn so I just had to splash out on a couple more samples.
 
Now that's more like it! I ordered a fingering weight dyed yarn and a DK natural yarn from The House of Hemp, they recommend washing the natural, undyed yarn before use to remove the starch used during spinning. Jane generously popped in a few extra samples to play with.
 
For the fingering 50g is 170m. 20WPI. For the DK 50g is 85m. 16WPI. The long fibres impart a lusterous sheen. To start with my swatches feel stiff, but after washing (as recommended) they both soften.The fingering weight particularly transforms and calls out for a garment pattern. The DK has great stitch definition, but might be more suited to for a throw, wrap or jacket. These are going on my must have list.

 Pineapple,

For this sample think heavy string in texture. 100g is 44m. 7WPI. To be honest I'm at a loss what use to put this to. It would make a good doormat except for the fact that it's far too expensive. It's too stiff to even use with my lucet.

Nettle, sometimes called Ramie.

I really don't know what you'd do with this either. It's incredible strong and fine but rough to the touch. 100g is 251m. 20WPI. When I started to make my sample it reminded me of Hessian, also known as Burlap.

 Banana, sometimes called Abaca.

 I ordered the 'Rainbow Road' (left) but Sprout also popped a free sample of 'Opal' (right) in my package which is quite different. So I thought we should try them both. 50g is 32m. 7-11WPI. These samples are too thick and heavy for clothing but you will find Banana in lighter weights. These are very similar to recycled Sari silk but not as coarse.

Seaweed,

I love this beautiful soft cotton like yarn. 100g is 119m. 11WPI. At this weight it would be great for rugs or baskets but I'd like to try it in a fingering weight. I'm going to be trying this with my lucet.

Bamboo, 

Having used bamboo once before I found it to be quite heavy so this time I chose 4ply, 50g is 200m. 19WPI.

It's soft, silky, slippery and splits easily. OK, that doesn't make it sound too good but I really love this! It would make a very comforting garment. It has a stretchy, fluid quality which I think would make great socks. I'm definitely going to find an excuse to use this again.

Soya, 
It's apparently made from a by product of tofu production.

Sadly this Sirdar yarn is now discontinued. 50g 105m. 14WPI. This particular yarn is wonderfully soft to the touch but has a light twist, so it has a tendency to split. (If you're not sure what I mean by twist then try this post.)

Both the soya and bamboo have very similar qualities to rayon.

Viscose, Rayon,
These are generalised terms for a product made from cellulose fibres. The down side is that they require a lot of chemical processing. There are many more specific types of viscose. You will often find them in a mix with other fibres such as wool and silk.
This sample is a 4ply (fingering) cotton viscose mix, the sparkly glints are the viscose!

These are the types I've read about.

Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Woocoa-made from coconut and hemp fibres, Cupro-made from waste cotton, Seacell-made from seaweed.

Nullarbor, or nanollose is a new product that I'd really like to find. The name comes from the words nullus arbor, meaning 'no trees'. It could well be our greenest choice as it's made from microbial fungi.

I went to Homemadebysprout, YarnYarn and The House of Hemp for my yarns. Plus a few supplied by my magpie-eyed Mother-in-law from the charity shop. (Thanks Jan!) Right now you'll probably only get cotton, linen and bamboo from the large yarn companies. But please don't be despondent. If we create a demand they will make it! I've always believed a single person can make a difference. So chin up!

If you can offer up any suggestions, favourite products or suppliers please shout up in the comments below.

Fastening off...

What are wraps per inch and how do I measure them?

WPI is one of those mysterious abbreviations that yarnies toss about to the bamboozlement of the rest of us! In fact it's simply a way of categorising the weight of a yarn.

I don't know how the rest of the world gets on. If you're English it can be very confusing I was taught 4ply and Double Knitting. That left me wondering what on earth Lace weight and Fingering was. Then there are crochet thread weights 3, 5, and 8; as well as 10,20,30 etc. So compared to that WPI starts to seem really sensible.

There is always a catch! Your WPI will depend on how much tension you use. The way you calculate wraps per inch is merely to wrap it around something and count the number of wraps in an inch! The width (and length) of a piece of yarn depends on how much tension is put on the threads. It really is a case of 'how longs a piece of string?!!

If you search for WPI gauge tools, I'm sure you'll find plenty but all you really need is a ruler. The best way to work out your WPI is to lay the threads over the ruler or lightly wrap it.
Don't just wrap an inch as any variations in the thickness and the wrapping process will effect your count. So wrap a number of inches laying the strands snugly next to each other.

If it's a very fine yarn you will only need to wrap a couple of inches, but if it's very chunky you'll need to choose a much larger distance.
Count the strands and divide by the number of inches you've wrapped.
So I've got my count, what now? 
Well now you can identify the yarn weight. Try using the Craft Yarn Council chart that you'll find here. If your yarn has lost it's label you now stand a better chance of identifying it! Perhaps you are thinking of combining two different yarns together in the same project, or are using up oddments. You can now ensure that all your yarns are a similar size.

This yarn is from a charity shop. All the label tells me is the name of the yarn and who made it. I can find very little information about it on line. But knowing it has 5WPI I can search for patterns using Super Bulky yarn. That will keep me out of trouble for hours!

Fastening off...

Basketweave Variations for Crochet

Aren't we always looking for something a little different? This week I've been playing about with some ideas, all variations on a common stitch, Basketweave.

Last Christmas I made this tea cosy for one of my sisters. You can find the pattern here. It uses the standard stitch. Let's start by looking at that.
It's made using 'Raised' or 'Post' stitches. If you're not sure how to make these stitches have a look at this post.

In this example I'm working into a base row of Treble stitches (DC-USA). I've chosen to show this with a multiple of 3 stitches, but you can choose any multiple. I've also shown it with one stitch at either side to act as a selvage. If you were working in the round you would omit these stitches. The American Terminology is shown in blue. [All my samples are made using Scheepjes Softfun Denim, a variegated cotton yarn.]

This is what the stitch diagram might look like.

The instructions would read as follows:
Chain 22 sts.
Row1. Tr (Dc) in fourth ch from the hook and in each ch to the end. Turn
Row2. Ch2, skip first st. *Front Post (FP)Trx3 (FPDc), Back Post (BP)Trx3 (BPDc), repeat from* to last st. Tr (Dc) in last st. Turn
Row3. Ch2, skip first st. *BPTrx3 (BPDc), FPTrx3 (FPDc), repeat from* to last st. Tr (Dc) in last st. Turn.
Row4. Repeat row3.
Row5&6. Repeat row2.
Repeat rows3 to 6 to desired length.

Variation 1. Overlay Basketweave.

The woven effect in this sample is achieved with overlay stitches. (Front Loop and Back Loop stitches abbreviated to FL and BL.) If you are unsure about how to make any of the stitches in this sample this post may help. I've written the pattern as if it was made in 2 colours so that you can understand the construction a little better. I prefer it in just one colour.

The instructions would read:
Chain 21.
Row1. Dc (SC) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] FLDc (FLSc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *FLDTrx3 (FLTr)[DoubleTreble in front loop of row1 sts below], BLDcx3 (BLSc), repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st. Turn.
Row4. Ch1, FLDc (FLSc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row5. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *BLDcx3 (BLSc), FLDTrx3 (FLTr) [DTr in front loop of row2 sts below], repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st.
Row6. Repeat row4.
Row7. Ch1, BLDc (BLSc) in first st, *FLDTrx3 (FLTr)[DTr in front loop of row4 sts below], BLDcx3 (BLSc), repeat from* to last st, BLDc (BLSc) in last st. Turn.
Row8. Repeat row4.
Repeat rows5 to 8 to desired length.

Variation 2. Basket Stitch.

 

The stitch looks slightly different on each side. I prefer the way it looks on this side, but it's up to you! I also think it looks better in more than one colour. The way I have written the pattern means that you can change colour at the end of each even row without having to fasten off each time. The long stitches are spike stitches. If you are unsure how to make these stitches this post may help.

For help with changing colour try this post.

The instructions.
With ColourA Chain 21.
Row1. Htr (Hdc) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, Htr (Hdc) in first st, *Htrx3 (Hdc), skipping the next three row2 sts, Htr in row1 sts below x3, repeat from* to last st, Htr in last st, Turn.
Row4. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to end. Change to Col.A in last st. Turn.
Row5. Ch1,  Htr (Hdc) in first st, *skipping the next three row4 sts, Htr in row3 sts below x3, Htrx3 (Hdc), repeat from* to last st, Htr in last st, Turn.
Row6. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Repeat rows3 to 6 to desired length.

Variation 3. Woven spike stitch.

This sample also looks slightly different on each side. The spike stitches are more like V's on the 'back'. While it's very attractive I prefer this side which makes me think of woven cane seating. You could work the spikes in sets of three like the last variation but I thought you might like to see an alternative!

Instructions:
With ColourA Chain21.
Row1. Dc (SC) in second ch from hook and in each st to the end. Turn.
Row2. Ch1 [does not count as stitch here and throughout.] Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Turn.
Row3. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn.
Row4. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in first st, *skipping next row3 st, Dc (Sc) in the stitch three rows below (between the stitches as in detail below), Dc (Sc) in next row3 st, repeat from* to last st, Dc (Sc) in last st. Turn.
Row5. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.A in last st. Turn.
Row6. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in first st, *Dc (Sc) in next row5 st, skipping next row5 st, Dc (Sc) in the stitch three rows below,  repeat from* to last st, Dc (Sc) in last st. Turn. 
Row7. Ch1, Dc (Sc) in each st to the end. Change to Col.B in last st. Turn. 
Repeat rows4 to 7 to desired length.

Writing crochet instructions is not easy for a dyslexic, so I'm off to bang my head on the wall for a little light relief! Please feel free to point out any discrepancies so that I can correct them.😵

Fastening Off...

How to Mend Crochet

Look what my darling dogs have done! So this weeks blog is all about mending. My dastardly darlings must have had a lot of fun when they played tug of war with my Spirits of Life Wrap. I was very good, I didn't scream at them, I didn't panic, I didn't even put them on half rations. Instead I tried to see it as a learning opportunity!

I remember seeing a post about mending crochet by LillaBjorn there was also a post by Robyn Chachula. Being dyslexic I read both but failed to understand them! Doesn't that sound like a cue for a photo tutorial in which we both learn together?

Having consulted my Ravelry Project page for the hook size and with pattern in hand I'm ready to start.

Here goes then, lets start with one of the smallest rips first. A row of Treble stitches followed by a row of Double Crochet (Dc, Sc-USA). I'm going to run a thread through the base of the upper row of stitches, the navy row. I'll remove this later.

 Now I have to undo the stitches from the middle outwards, leaving the threads to weave in. I'm a bit anxious about this bit!

I can now work the Treble stitches from right to left. I am joining my new yarn into the loop I've parked on a stitch marker.

And needle joined to the other side.

(Because this wrap is made in rows I need to turn it over for the next row.) Turning over I can again join my new yarn to the stitch parked on the second marker. Now I'm following the instructions...Make one stitch...

Using a smaller size hook, thread it through the bottom of the stitch above (where the yarn is threaded,)...

Grab the loop and pull it through.

After making each stitch pull the loop through, as before. It's very fiddly but it works!

Remove the thread you added right at the beginning.
This is what it looks like finished. Not perfect but compared with what we started with I'm really pleased.

Here's what the other little tear looks like when mended.

Now I've got the confidence to tackle that huge rip along the seam.
According to my pattern this is two rows of Double crochet (Sc-USA). The corner-to-corner panel is then worked into the top row of double crochet stitches.
 
There are two tiny breaks in the corner-to-corner work. I am going to do my best to reinforce this with a yarn thread of the same colour.

That done I can carefully remove the old damaged grey stitches leaving enough thread to weave in later.

The first row of grey stitches is complete.

The second row was originally joined to the corner-to corner work with slip stitches so I have to pull the loop of each stitch through the old loops of the corner-to-corner work.

Oh No! I've only got that scary corner-to-corner section left to mend. I've only ever used the corner-to-corner technique on this project. Deep breath Rach!
 
OK so lets just go one step at a time. As the name suggests it's worked diagonally. So first of all I've got to figure out which direction to work in.

 
Like this...
 
I'm going to mark all the stitches that the grey yarn joins to. I'll use the same yellow thread from before and then remove the damaged section.

 

Now that the damage has been removed it doesn't look as scary. All I have to do is join the new yarn in the stitch I've parked on the stitch marker. Then continue working in the diagonal rows. When I get to the bottom of the row I slip stitch to the base.

When I get to the top, I slip a loop through the 'yarn-marked' stitch on the right side of the cell.(1). 

Then I need to get to the left side of the cell. So I place a slip stitch in the top of each treble stitch (Dc-USA) across the top of the cell,(2,3&4).

 Then another slip stitch in the 3-chain loop.(5).

This leaves a loop on the hook which I can pull through the next 'yarn-marked' stitch.(6)

 

 

I hope you've been following so far because I have now run into a problem. When I get to the left hand side I need to feed 3 chain stitches through the 3 navy stitches. But that leaves my working yarn too far away from my hook.

 

So the only way I can think of to do this is to work out how much yarn I need to finish the entire area and pull it all through those three stitches. If you can figure out another solution please let me know!!

 

I have to do that with each of the navy cells all the way to the top. Fortunately it's not as hard as it sounds.

Et Viola!!

 

That was an awfully long post, so well done if you stayed with me to the end. The important thing to take away with you is this. When the worst happens there is a solution. Just take it one step at a time!