What is Waterfall Crochet and how do you make it?

What do you love most about crochet? For me it is discovering a new technique. Last year I wrote a post about 50 different types of crochet and here I am not twelve months later with one I missed off the list. That actually makes me surprisingly happy!

So what is Waterfall crochet? Like water falling over a cliff edge, the stitches fall down over the work. It's different from both spike stitches and overlay crochet. So let me show you how it works.

You start with a skeleton of treble stitches (Dc-USA) and chain spaces. Then starting from the outer/top row, the stitches drop down through the chain spaces and attach to a treble stitch below. Even the longest of the drops is made as a single stitch. This enables you to insert another colour into a row without any of the usual colour-work techniques.

The important things to know are, that your working thread always stays at the back of your work and encapsulates the chain stitches, and that you will need a hook with a long, straight shaft. Try using a bamboo hook, a double ended hook or a Tunisian hook. For the following tutorial I managed to use a normal Clover hook because I was using 4ply yarn.

 

The stitches are abbreviated as 'W' plus a number. The number refers to the length of the stitch. So, W2 is a treble stitch plus one chain space. A W3 is a treble stitch plus two chain spaces and so on.

In this design we begin with Treble stitches (Dc-US). The first waterfall stitch is a W2.

First we need to load the hook with all the 'yarn overs' we will need. Yarn over the hook for the Treble;

Place the hook into the first chain space and yarn over the hook twice. You will do this for each of your chain spaces, but this time we only have one space.

Bring the hook back through the chain space, to the front of the work, and place the hook into the Treble stitch below.

Yarn over the hook and bring the loop through to the front. The loops are now worked off the hook from the back.

So turn or flip the work to see the back. Yarn over the hook and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook.

Yarn over the hook again, this time pull through the next 2 loops on the hook and past the chain stitch.

Now you have reached the Treble stitch at the top. So (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice, just as you would normally.

Your first W2 stitch is completed. 

For a W3 you would load your hook in the same way for each chain space.

Because the stitches are made over the chain stitches you will have to straighten them up from time to time.

 

I experienced quite a big learning curve with this technique. I had to find a comfortable way to hold the work and the hook, as well as learning to control my tension. As with anything, practise makes perfect!

On the plus side, I like the low relief it creates and the look of a woven fabric, it reminds me of basketry. There is a bonus in that it creates a solid fabric with none of the free standing or loose stitches you find in overlay crochet. A definite bonus is the lack of yarn ends you're left with and no juggling with balls of yarn!

All the designs in this post were taken from an Annie's Crochet publication, Waterfall Crochet Granny Squares by Joanne C. Gonzalez.

 

Fastening off...

 

Tatted Picots and Half-Hitches.

Crochet is by and large a very lonely occupation, but isn't it wonderful how universal our community is? I never forget that I only get to do this because of all the hook-wielders before me!

    Back in June when I was writing about picots, I came across a reference to Tatted Picot in an old crochet book. Frustratingly I could not make head nor tail of the instructions. So when I read a recent blog post by Vashti Braha about Limpet Stitches a light bulb went off in my head. She in turn refers us to some video instructions by Sue Perez / Mrs Micawber. TaDah! all becomes clear to me.

    So what is a Tatted Picot? It's a sort of crocodile stitch formed from half-hitches. It may come to us directly from Tatting or through Irish Crochet.

    Here's how it's made. 

1. We start with a double crochet (single crochet-USA) made into the base row.

 2. Then we create an even number of half hitch pairs. This is where we needed Mrs Micawber. This is what a single pair of half hitches looks like.

3. To make the right-hand loop;

Place the yarn over your forefinger from front to back.

4. Place the hook through the loop from the front, letting it fall onto the hook.

5. To make the left-hand loop; 

Place the yarn over your forefinger from back to front.

6. Place the hook through the loop from the back, letting it fall onto the hook.

7. That is the first pair of half-hitches made. 

8. Make 7 more pairs.

9. Grab the yarn leaving plenty of working thread to pull through the picot.

10. Pull through all the loops on the hook. Adjust the picot to remove any slack.

11. Now work one chain stitch to join your tatted picot...

12. Skip 2 base stitches and work another double crochet (Sc-USA) into the base fabric.

13. On your next row place a stitch into the chain at the centre of the picot. And another stitch into the left hand side of the picot.

Until Vashti illuminated these instructions for me I had never seen any other reference to these type of stitches. I was wondering when I would ever find the need for such a strange picot, but then 'The guy with the hook', published his stylish Ottomania pattern. 

While Mark has cleverly used a sort of inside out bobble, I can now imagine tatted picots used in a similar.

 If you would like to try the swatch sample I have produced, these are my instructions (UK terminology). 

The pattern needs to be worked over multiples of 4 stitches, plus an extra stitch at each end. I started with 30 stitches.

Row1. Make 30 Foundation Double Crochet (Sc-USA). Turn.

Row2. Chain2 (doesn't count as stitch), Treble Crochet (Dc-USA) in each stitch across. Turn.

Row3. Chain1 (doesn't count as stitch), Dc in each of next 5 stitches, *Dc in next stitch, 1 Tatted picot as described above [No.3to11], skip2 stitches, Dc in next stitch. Dc in next 4 stitches**. Repeat from *to** finishing with a Dc in last stitch. Turn.

Row4. Chain2, *Tr in next 6 dc, Tr in chain-space of picot, Tr in left hand side of picot. Repeat from* across row. Turn.

Row5. Chain1, Dc in first st,
*Dc in next stitch, 1 Tatted picot, skip2 stitches, Dc in next stitch. Dc in next 4 stitches**. 

Repeat from *to** finishing with Dc in next stitch, 1 Tatted picot, skip2 stitches, Dc in next stitch and a Dc in last stitch. Turn.

Row6. Chain2, Tr in next 2 dc, *Tr in chain-space of picot, Tr in left hand side of picot, Tr in next 6 dc. Repeat from* across row.Turn.

Now repeat the pattern [Row3to6] as set to your desired height.

 By altering the number of half hitch pairs in the picot, the number of stitches skipped and how tightly they are closed I think that there is plenty here to experiment with!

It only seems fitting at this time of year, the winter equinox here in the UK, that we should celebrate all our fellow hook wielders who help to shine a light on our craft! Seasons Greetings to one and all.

Fastening off...

 

P.S. This year I have been blogging every fourth Tuesday, and while that makes sense for me, I've finally realised it makes no sense for you at all. So from now on I will be blogging every 15th of the month. That way you'll know when there is new content. Of course you can always sign up for the email notification!

How to make Flat X and Y Crochet Stitches

 We all have a comfort zone, a safe place were there are no unexpected challenges and no frustration. Stepping outside that place is a little scary, it means taking a risk, but brings unexpected rewards. Finally I have challenged myself with the X and Y stitch and been happily surprised by the result!

Whenever I've looked at the instructions for an X or Y stitch, all I've seen is YarnOverYarnOverYarnOver and immediately a little voice inside my head starts screaming! Finally I have fought my way through those seemingly undulating instructions. I've figured out exactly where that hook should go. Let me try to demystify it for you and serve it up in a slightly more palatable fashion.

[In all these examples I've chosen to place a Chain1 between the crossed stitches for visual clarity.]

Let's start by looking at the sort of crossed stitches that we're all familiar with. Shall we call them 'unconnected X stitches'? You know, where the diagonals can travel in front or behind each other and are completely independent of each other. They can be made using any number of diagonals crossing each other.

If the foremost stitch slants down to the left, then the second stitch needs to be made behind the first. This is the easiest type to make, we merely fold the 1st stitch forward to make the 2nd stitch behind.

If the foremost stitch slants down to the right, then the second stitch needs to be made in front of the first. This is a little bit more fiddly. 

The next type we could call 'connected X stitches'.

That's when the second diagonal encloses the first like a spike stitch. This is usually made with a Treble (Dc-USA). In this case the working yarn should be held behind and the stitch made in front, encapsulating that first diagonal.

There is a second way of making this with a taller stitch. Let's call it a 'parallel X stitch'.

This time make a Double-Treble (Tr-USA) in the first stitch. Chain1. 

Yarn over the hook once only, pull up a loop in the next stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook;

now loop the hook around and behind the 1st stitch, [marked by needle in image3] grab the yarn and bring it in front,

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x2.

It's possible to use this same wrapping technique to make a 'Y' stitch.

So, make a Double-Treble (Tr-USA) in the first stitch. Chain1. 

Yarn over the hook once, loop the hook around and behind the 1st stitch, grab the yarn and bring it to the front,

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x2.

Now we come to 'flat stitches'. I think the best way to approach the X is by first looking at the Y!

If we wrote the flat Y stitch in a chart it might look like this:

 

It's a long diagonal with a shorter stitch anchored to it's middle. Quite simply it's a Double-Treble (Tr-USA) with a Treble (Dc) anchored to it's middle.

Here's how it's made.

Double-Treble in indicated stitch, Chain1;

Yarn over hook, place hook behind the lowest diagonal bar and left leg of stitch, pull up a loop,  [marked by needle in image2]

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x2

We need to consider the 'upside down Y stitch' as well. It might look like this in a chart:

It's a cluster stitch with a short stitch on top.

Here's how it's made.

Yarn over hook twice; 

Pull up a loop in 1st stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook- 1st leg made.

YO hook, pull up a loop in 2nd stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook- 2nd leg made. 

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x3- 3rd leg made.   

So to make a 'flat X stitch' we start with an upside down Y and add that short diagonal to it's middle. In a chart it looks something like this:

Make the upside down Y stitch, as above, then;

Chain1, YO hook, place hook behind diagonal bar and left leg at centre of stitch,

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x3- 4th leg made.

Wouldn't it be great, just for once, to say it was all that simple? Sadly this is ThePulledStitch universe where nothing can EVER be quite that simple! So before I leave you I have to offer you one more flat X stitch version.

In a chart it would probably look like this:

And is made as follows:

Yarn over hook three times, [Trebletreble-UK, Dtr-USA]

Pull up a loop in 1st stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook- 1st leg made.

YO hook, pull up a loop in 2nd stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook- 2nd leg made.

YO and pull through 3 loops on hook- 2 legs joined.

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x2- 3rd leg made.

Chain1,

YO hook, place hook behind the two diagonal bars at centre of stitch,

(YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x3- 4th leg made.

I can't decide which of these two flat X stitches I prefer. I shall leave you to decide! The truth is always 'there is no right or wrong in crochet'. You will find that there are as many ways to make these stitches as there are grains of sand on a beach. You will find fat X's and thin X's, tall Y's and short Y's.

Hopefully neither of us will ever be scared of tackling one again and if you don't like the way it looks, you'll understand how to change it to one you do like.

Fastening Off...