The Pulled Stitch Blog: Folded-crochet hexagon sampler pattern.

As a follow on from last month's post I have a little sampler pattern for you. It's a great way to try out folded-crochet techniques. What you end up with is a tactile and useful little mat, great as a trivet, pot holder or mug mat.

The sampler let's you explore some of the different ways to fold stitches. You start by working in the round and see how to place increases as the design grows. But also because it's a hexagon it gives you an idea of how and where to place increases to turn a corner.

You'll find the link to the PDF at the end of this article. It includes a stitch chart as well as the written instructions but it is intended to go along with this post. If you want to use it as a mug mat or pot holder I suggest you use something that can resist heat like cotton. You can use any size or type of yarn you have handy, just use the recommended hook size. As a rough guide, sport weight to DK yarn and a 3.5mm/4mm hook will use about 60-80metres in total and the finished design will be 16-17cm in diameter.

Before we start:

I class this is an advanced level pattern because we are using non standard stitches and making increases.

Where ever possible I like to start my rounds with a Standing Stitch and with or without a slip stitch on the hook and then finish the round with a Needle Join. I think this is the neatest way to work.

Let's begin!

Round1

I've begun with a double Magic Ring, it took me some practise to get this technique under my belt, so if you're still struggling with it, begin with a Chain4 instead. After making 12 Half-trebles (Hdc-USA) you can close the magic ring. Needle join over the first Half-treble so that you don't make an extra stitch.

Round2

The first Folding stitch we use is the 'On-Off' stitch that I demonstrated last month. This is slightly different because we need to add increases to get around the circle.

Work 2 Front-Loop Double-Trebles (FLTr-USA) in the first stitch, chain1 and skip 1 stitch.

Repeat this sequence around the circle and Needle Join to close.

Do you think I've gone mad? It looks as if this can't possibly work out right, but these are the stitches we are folding.

Round3

All the stitches in this round are worked into Round1. So Round2 is folded forward out of the way.

We make 2Double crochet (Sc-USA) through both loops of the empty stitch.

And 2 Back-Loop Double crochet (BL Sc-USA) into the back loop of the stitch already containing two stitches.

This sequence is repeated around the circle but this time slip stitch to the start and don't fasten off.

Round4

This is the hardest round in the whole design, after this it's plain sailing all the way!

This round folds the stitches from round2. The first two Treble stitches (Dc-USA) have to be made into the back loop of the purple stitches at the same time as the pink stitches underneath.

The second two trebles are made in front of the chain spaces into the pink stitches.

This pushes the chain stitches to the back of the work.

Round5

These treble stitches will be folded in the next round, you can see how I have added increases evenly as we are still making a round shape.

Round6

Now there are no increases on this round because the stitches are made into both the last pink and purple stitches, together, at the same time.

Round7&8

This is the first round that forms a Hexagon shape. You can see how I have grouped the increases to change the shape. These are double-treble (Tr-USA) stitches that we are folding with the green stitches being placed in both loops of the purple ones.

Round9&10

This looks like a repeat of the last two rounds, except this time we are folding the mauve stitches by using just the back loops. It makes the folded stitches taller and fatter than before.

Round11&12

We are working a false folded round now by using 'Candy-Cane' stitch. Follow the link to find the original tutorial. It is normally worked in two colours but as I have chosen to use just one colour I am working it in two passes.

Both passes are the same and there are no increases to worry about. The stitches are made into the front loop only.

The second pass has to be made around the first one.

The hook is removed from the loop, the chain stitches and working yarn are passed through the chain space and picked up again on the hook. This wraps the second pass around the first. It's not difficult just slow going.