How to Crochet Slip Stitch.

     If we could write a neat formula like E=MC2 to describe the physical rules of crochet, then Slip-Stitch crochet would be the outlier, the black hole, the dark matter. We would instead be forced to invent a String Theory to explain it! (Sorry!) Fortunately, perhaps, I am neither Isaac Newton or Einstein so let's just start with the basics.

It's a few years since I first blogged about Slip-Stitch Crochet as a Slip-Stitch newbie. I realise now how much I left out of that post. So, today I'll show you how to make the six types of stitch which make up the basis of all the stitch patterns.

   Let's assume you are trying slip-st crochet for the very first time. Start with a heavy weight yarn and a hook at least two sizes bigger than the yarn band advises. Some people will advise you to use an inline hook. Personally I believe that is unnecessary and the secret is in the yarn tension.   

    Before you even make your first slip stitch let's look at how you are holding your working yarn. I am a very tight crocheter and I tend to hang on for grim death. But, when Slip-stitching this is how I hold my yarn so that I have almost no tension on the yarn at all. I find this type of crochet very therapeutic and mindful. 

Foundation Row

As this is your first attempt we'll begin with any easy and stable foundation. Use this to practise all the stitches below.

    Chain20 +1 turning chain, then Double-crochet (Sc-US) back into each of the 20 Chains.

    Chain1 turning chain, tighten the yarn to reduce the height of this stitch. Many slip stitch patterns are written without any turning chains but I have found that this reduced height chain is helpful.

 

Slip-st swatch 

Having made the foundation row as written above, pull up that first loop on the hook just a little bit looser than normal. 

   Place the hook into the first stitch yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook. As you pull through, once again pull through a little bit looser than usual.

    Work along the row and when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

    Turn and notice how the tops of the last row of stitches are now facing away from you.

    Slip-st into each stitch across. If you are having trouble inserting the hook then you made your last row too tightly. You'll need to pull your stitches a little bit taller.  

 

This is what I think of as the physics of slip-stitches. The stitches have four opportunities to get tighter and more even;

1. When the stitch is being made 

2. When the next stitch is being made 

3. When the next row is being made 

4. When the fabric is stretched and blocked

So, even if your stitches initially look a bit too loose avoid the temptation to tug! Even if you have been crocheting for years this is a new skill, your patience will be well rewarded.

When you have finished you will have created  a swatch of Slip-stitch rib; a dense and slightly stretchy rib fabric.  

 

Back Loop Slip-st Rib 

Start with the same stable foundation we used before.

    After the slip-st rib this will be a breeze. Use the reduced height turning chains and this time work into the back loop only of each stitch.

    It's very easy to poke the tip of the hook under that back loop. Keep an eye on your stitch count as it is really easy to overlook that last stitch in the row.

This is the stitch I use for ribbing on cuffs and hems. It produces a very stretchy but less dense ribbing than plain slip-st rib.

 

Front Loop Slip-st / Garter st

    Starting with the foundation row and turning chains, this time you will Slip-st into the front loop only.

When you turn, because the top of the stitch tilts away from you, that front loop is now at the top of the fabric. This makes is really easy to crochet into.

Before we go any further I have some more Slip-st physics for you to observe.  When you have finished your swatch, give it a good stretch in all directions. Standard crochet has some stretch but mainly it stretches best diagonally, from corner to corner.  This fabric is thinner and stretches vertically.

 

Inverse Back Loop Slip-st / Inverse Garter Stitch  

Inverse Back loop stitches create something that looks like a Front loop stitch. Inverse Front loop stitches create something that looks like a Back loop stitch. I find this in equal parts puzzling and confusing. This is part of the reason I find Slip-sts so alluring!

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. 

Normally when you reach the end of a row you would turn the work from right to left, so that the working yarn is behind the hook. When working Inverse stitches, instead, turn the work from left to right so that the working yarn falls in front of the hook. Or in other words, turn and bring the working yarn to the front!

  Insert the lip of the hook under the back loop from back to front. 

From this position the hook just naturally slides into the stitch.

    Yarn under the hook.

    With the hook facing down and slightly forwards pull the yarn back through the stitch and the loop on the hook at the same time.

     Inverse Back Loop slip-st in each stitch across, when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

   Turn and notice how the tops of your stitches are now facing forwards.

When you've finished you can compare your two Garter stitch samples. I think this version feels a lot more elastic.

Inverse Front Loop Slip-st / Inverse Rib stitch

This makes a flattened but very stretchy rib. It requires some patience to make this swatch completely even and tidy. 

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. Bring the working yarn to the front of your hook.

    Insert the hook under the front loop from back to front. Yarn under the hook.

    With the hook facing down and slightly forwards pull the yarn back through the stitch and the loop on the hook at the same time.

  Inverse Front Loop slip-st in each stitch across, when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

   Turn and notice how the tops of your stitches are now facing forwards.

Twisted Slip-st / Corded Slip-st

This is a very rare stitch but worth including.

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. Turn in the normal way and keep the working yarn to the back of the hook.

    Insert the lip of the hook under the stitch from back to front. From this position the hook just naturally slides into the stitch.

    Yarn over the hook and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook.

    You will find that your working yarn is now at the front of your work, so take it to the back, so that it is behind the hook when you make your next stitch.

    It is possible to use this technique in either the back or front loop only. If you want to try those stitches I suggest you go up at least one more hook size.

This makes a very strong stable stitch which I can imagine would be great for making market bags.

Now that you are fully armed with all the requisite knowledge, next month I will show you some fun and interesting ways to combine these stitches.

Fastening off...