Compendium of Crochet Slip Stitches

 ... or, Beyond Shepherd's Knitting.

I've noticed that Shepherd's Knitting is becoming more mainstream lately, but there is so much more to Slip-Stitch crochet. So, I have curated a small collection of stitch patterns in an effort to open the door a crack wider. You will find all the information you need on 'How to Slip-Stitch Crochet' in last months post.

All of the stitches that I am showing you today are worked in rows, so, to and fro or back and forth. I have mainly used a hook which is 2mm larger than the size recommended by the yarn band. I am using a reduced height turning chain at the start of each row. Where I have known the name of a stitch I have used it, but for the stitches that I have discovered myself I have named them myself. I am not good at naming things! 

There is so much we could talk about here, and so many ways we could compare the stitches. Let's just start with Rib stitches. 

Rib stitches

Slip-Stitch Rib is as basic as it gets. It makes a thick, warm fabric which stretches mainly vertically.

To produce this sample start with a reduced height turning Chain and placing the hook under both loops, slip-stitch in each stitch across.

The symbol for a slip-stitch is very dull so the chart for this pattern would simply be something like this:

Back-Loop Rib is the most commonly used rib stitch. It makes a thinner and very elastic rib which stretches mainly vertically.

To produce this pattern slip-stitch under the back-loop only of each stitch across.

I have decided to break with convention here, in the chart I am showing the back-loop stitch simply as an upside down U. My chart looks like this:

Inverse Front-Loop Rib is remarkably similar to Back-Loop Rib. It takes some practise to create an even looking fabric. My sample is a little flatter and very stretchy but less elastic than the back-loop version.

To produce this sample inverse  slip-stitch under the front loop only.

We can think of a Back-loop stitch as similar to an inverse Front-loop stitch. Equally a Front-loop stitch is very similar to an inverse Back-loop stitch.

I am not aware of a symbol for an inverse stitch so I am identifying it as a U with a i to represent the 'i' of inverse. My chart looks like this:

Slip-Stitch Ridges is made using twisted stitches. It isn't really elastic and takes practise and patience. I can't imagine when I would ever use this stitch but I would be remiss if I left it out. I demonstrated how to make twisted stitches in the last post. 

To produce this sample make the foundation with a normal size of hook but make the Back-loop twisted slip-stitches with a much larger hook. I used a 4mm hook for the base rows and a 7mm hook thereafter. 

The chart might look like this:

Ric Rac Rib is incredibly stretchy and elastic vertically, it wants to spring back into place. It has some stretch width wise as well. This is where Slip-stitch crochet starts to get really interesting. Notice as you work this stitch that when you make a Front-loop stitch you create a little vertical bar on the surface of your fabric. When you make a Back-loop stitch you create a little horizontal bar. 

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; Front-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, Back-loop slip-stitch in the next stitch, repeated across the row. 

Row2; Back-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, Front-loop slip-stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

I've charted it like this:

  

Flying Birds might not be a rib stitch at all. It makes a textural low-relief rib that stretches more vertically than horizontally. I've chosen to include it at this point because it is made from exactly the same stitches as Ric Rac Rib.

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches, but this time repeat only one row; Front-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, Back-loop slip stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

The chart quickly shows how, despite being made from the same stitches, these two samples differ:

Stacking Boxes. So far I have been giving you little bites of information about slip-stitches. I like to think of this as Slip-stitch physics. I hope, now that I hit you with all the same information again in one big wallop, it will be easier to swallow! If an inverse Front-loop stitch is the same as a Back-loop stitch, and an inverse Back-loop stitch is the same as a Front-loop stitch, then this sample should be the same as Ric Rac Rib. It is certainly very similar.

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; inverse Front-loop, inverse Back-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row. 

Row2; inverse Back-loop, inverse Front-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row.

I've charted it like this:

Fusilli. My partner named this because it reminded him of the spiralling pasta! It is the sister stitch to Stacking boxes as it uses the same stitches. Which makes it the inverse version of Flying birds, similar to- but not quite the same!

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches, but this time repeat only one row; inverse Front-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, inverse Back-loop slip stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

You can compare the charts:

Cable Stitches

What is the difference between a cable and a rib? In my mind a cable is merely a vertical rib!

 

Furrow stitch. The photo really doesn't do justice to the wonderful texture which instantly reminded me of a ploughed field. Unlike all the other stitch combinations so far this one stretches in all the directions!  I would suggest you make the foundation row with a hook one size smaller than for the rest of the fabric. I've used a 4mm followed by a 5mm hook.

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; inverse Front-loop, Back-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row. Row2; Back-loop, inverse Front-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row.

I've charted it like this:

 

Stacking wedges. Looking at Furrow St, I wondered if I could make the furrows wider. This low relief stretchy fabric is the result.

To produce this sample work over a multiple of 4 stitches plus an additional 2.  The extra two stitches work like a border and allow you to repeat only the one row;

inverse Front-loop slip-stitch in each of first two stitches, Back-loop slip-stitch in each of next two stitches, repeated across the row finishing inverse Front-loop slip-stitch in last two stitches. 

The chart makes this easier to understand:

 

Trellis Stitch has amazing vertical stretch but lacks elasticity. It also has stretch on the horizontal and diagonal. How a fabric stretches affects how it might be used. A heavy weight sweater, for instance, would make this fabric longer and thinner. However if the pattern was turned horizontally it might have good drape and flexibility.

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches, repeating only one row; Front-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, inverse Back-loop slip stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

The chart looks like this:

Criss Cross Cable. Trellis stitch is my favourite discovery so far, but as we've discussed there are limitations in how it might be used. I decided to copy what I had done with Stacking Wedges and double up the stitches. This dense deeply-ridged undulating fabric is the result. The fabric has all round stretch and is much more elastic than Trellis stitch. 

To produce this sample work over a multiple of 4 stitches repeating only one row. Front-loop slip-stitch in each of first two stitches, inverse Back-loop slip-stitch in each of next two stitches, repeated across the row.

The chart makes this easier to visualise:

Garter Stitch

In most slip-stitch dictionaries this would have appeared near the beginning along with Purl stitch and other basics. I've found some friends for it to play with so it gets it's very own sub heading!

 

Garter Stitch looks like a flat rib and like rib stitch it stretches vertically but not horizontally. 

To produce this sample slip stitch into the front-loop only of each stitch.

You don't really need a chart for this but I made one anyway!

Inverse Garter Stitch has a crisp finish and a little more elasticity making this well worthy of the inclusion. 

To produce this sample inverse Back-loop slip stitch in each stitch across.

Twisted Garter Stitch is included here for novelty value only! As you can see from my very untidy swatch I think it's of limited use. Like Slip-stitch Ridges it uses Twisted stitches but this time in the Front-loop only. 

To produce this sample make the foundation with a normal size of hook but make the Front-loop twisted slip-stitches with a much larger hook. I used a 4mm hook for the base rows and a 7mm hook thereafter. 

The chart might look like this:

Flat Stitches

Purl Stitch. So far all the stitches we have looked at have been reversible. They look the same on both sides. This is a single sided pattern that has a tendency to curl inwards from the top and bottom. The reverse looks a lot like Garter stitch. It also stretches like Garter stitch. 

To produce this sample work over any number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; Front-loop slip-stitch  across. 

Row2; Back-loop slip-stitch across.

Flat Stitch must be ironically named as it naturally tries to curl up. This makes it useful for rolled hems. It is also a single sided pattern. The reverse looks like Garter stitch.  

To produce this sample work over any number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; Front-loop slip-stitch  across. 

Row2; inverse Back-loop slip-stitch across.

 Mesh Stitch is a very flat, flat stitch! 

To produce this sample repeat the following row over an even number of stitches.

Front-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, inverse Front-loop slip-stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

 

Waffle Weave is a textured version of Mesh Stitch.

To produce this sample repeat the following row over an even number of stitches. 

Back-loop slip-stitch in the first stitch, inverse Back-loop slip-stitch in the next, repeated across the row.

 

Moss Stitch has multi directional stretch and makes an interesting light weight fabric.

To produce this sample work over an even number of stitches repeating the following two rows. 

Row1; Front-loop, inverse Back-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row. Row2; inverse Back-loop, Front-loop slip-stitch repeated across the row.

Corded Slip Stitch is made using Twisted slip-stitch. Unlike the other versions using twisted stitches this is fun and easy to make giving a very even pattern. I imagine it would be great for making shopping bags. 

To produce this sample make a Twisted slip-stitch, placing the hook under both loops slip-stitch in each stitch across.

 You will have noticed that all these stitches have very simple repeats, so I have left you plenty to experiment with! There are more slip-stitch posts planned for you over the next few months.

Fastening off...

How to Crochet Slip Stitch.

     If we could write a neat formula like E=MC2 to describe the physical rules of crochet, then Slip-Stitch crochet would be the outlier, the black hole, the dark matter. We would instead be forced to invent a String Theory to explain it! (Sorry!) Fortunately, perhaps, I am neither Isaac Newton or Einstein so let's just start with the basics.

It's a few years since I first blogged about Slip-Stitch Crochet as a Slip-Stitch newbie. I realise now how much I left out of that post. So, today I'll show you how to make the six types of stitch which make up the basis of all the stitch patterns.

   Let's assume you are trying slip-st crochet for the very first time. Start with a heavy weight yarn and a hook at least two sizes bigger than the yarn band advises. Some people will advise you to use an inline hook. Personally I believe that is unnecessary and the secret is in the yarn tension.   

    Before you even make your first slip stitch let's look at how you are holding your working yarn. I am a very tight crocheter and I tend to hang on for grim death. But, when Slip-stitching this is how I hold my yarn so that I have almost no tension on the yarn at all. I find this type of crochet very therapeutic and mindful. 

Foundation Row

As this is your first attempt we'll begin with any easy and stable foundation. Use this to practise all the stitches below.

    Chain20 +1 turning chain, then Double-crochet (Sc-US) back into each of the 20 Chains.

    Chain1 turning chain, tighten the yarn to reduce the height of this stitch. Many slip stitch patterns are written without any turning chains but I have found that this reduced height chain is helpful.

 

Slip-st swatch 

Having made the foundation row as written above, pull up that first loop on the hook just a little bit looser than normal. 

   Place the hook into the first stitch yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook. As you pull through, once again pull through a little bit looser than usual.

    Work along the row and when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

    Turn and notice how the tops of the last row of stitches are now facing away from you.

    Slip-st into each stitch across. If you are having trouble inserting the hook then you made your last row too tightly. You'll need to pull your stitches a little bit taller.  

 

This is what I think of as the physics of slip-stitches. The stitches have four opportunities to get tighter and more even;

1. When the stitch is being made 

2. When the next stitch is being made 

3. When the next row is being made 

4. When the fabric is stretched and blocked

So, even if your stitches initially look a bit too loose avoid the temptation to tug! Even if you have been crocheting for years this is a new skill, your patience will be well rewarded.

When you have finished you will have created  a swatch of Slip-stitch rib; a dense and slightly stretchy rib fabric.  

 

Back Loop Slip-st Rib 

Start with the same stable foundation we used before.

    After the slip-st rib this will be a breeze. Use the reduced height turning chains and this time work into the back loop only of each stitch.

    It's very easy to poke the tip of the hook under that back loop. Keep an eye on your stitch count as it is really easy to overlook that last stitch in the row.

This is the stitch I use for ribbing on cuffs and hems. It produces a very stretchy but less dense ribbing than plain slip-st rib.

 

Front Loop Slip-st / Garter st

    Starting with the foundation row and turning chains, this time you will Slip-st into the front loop only.

When you turn, because the top of the stitch tilts away from you, that front loop is now at the top of the fabric. This makes is really easy to crochet into.

Before we go any further I have some more Slip-st physics for you to observe.  When you have finished your swatch, give it a good stretch in all directions. Standard crochet has some stretch but mainly it stretches best diagonally, from corner to corner.  This fabric is thinner and stretches vertically.

 

Inverse Back Loop Slip-st / Inverse Garter Stitch  

Inverse Back loop stitches create something that looks like a Front loop stitch. Inverse Front loop stitches create something that looks like a Back loop stitch. I find this in equal parts puzzling and confusing. This is part of the reason I find Slip-sts so alluring!

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. 

Normally when you reach the end of a row you would turn the work from right to left, so that the working yarn is behind the hook. When working Inverse stitches, instead, turn the work from left to right so that the working yarn falls in front of the hook. Or in other words, turn and bring the working yarn to the front!

  Insert the lip of the hook under the back loop from back to front. 

From this position the hook just naturally slides into the stitch.

    Yarn under the hook.

    With the hook facing down and slightly forwards pull the yarn back through the stitch and the loop on the hook at the same time.

     Inverse Back Loop slip-st in each stitch across, when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

   Turn and notice how the tops of your stitches are now facing forwards.

When you've finished you can compare your two Garter stitch samples. I think this version feels a lot more elastic.

Inverse Front Loop Slip-st / Inverse Rib stitch

This makes a flattened but very stretchy rib. It requires some patience to make this swatch completely even and tidy. 

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. Bring the working yarn to the front of your hook.

    Insert the hook under the front loop from back to front. Yarn under the hook.

    With the hook facing down and slightly forwards pull the yarn back through the stitch and the loop on the hook at the same time.

  Inverse Front Loop slip-st in each stitch across, when you reach the end make a reduced height turning chain. 

   Turn and notice how the tops of your stitches are now facing forwards.

Twisted Slip-st / Corded Slip-st

This is a very rare stitch but worth including.

    Start with the foundation row and turning chain. Turn in the normal way and keep the working yarn to the back of the hook.

    Insert the lip of the hook under the stitch from back to front. From this position the hook just naturally slides into the stitch.

    Yarn over the hook and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook.

    You will find that your working yarn is now at the front of your work, so take it to the back, so that it is behind the hook when you make your next stitch.

    It is possible to use this technique in either the back or front loop only. If you want to try those stitches I suggest you go up at least one more hook size.

This makes a very strong stable stitch which I can imagine would be great for making market bags.

Now that you are fully armed with all the requisite knowledge, next month I will show you some fun and interesting ways to combine these stitches.

Fastening off...