How to create Crochet Ribbing.

I have more than a few questions about Crochet Ribbing, so in established Pulled Stitch tradition I have set about exploring the topic. As a non-knitter slapping on a knitted rib cuff is simply not an options, so let's take a look at what is available.

I have discovered five solutions for you. I'm beginning with the most commonly used and finishing with something special!

 

Post Stitch Ribbing

This is the first type of ribbing that I learnt on my crochet journey. But is it a ribbing?  Should we call this faux ribbing or perhaps pseudo ribbing?

 

So, if Post Stitch ribbing is a faux ribbing perhaps we should ask ourselves what we think ribbing is and what it's purpose is. Undoubtedly what we want from our ribbing will vary from project to project. I am going to begin with the idea that we want to reduce the circumference of our main fabric, like at a waistband. We might also want something stretchy as on a sock cuff and also for it to hold it's elasticity so that our socks don't fall down!

The post stitches create a ribbed look but they do not stretch. They do, however, reduce the circumference of the main fabric slightly. Post stitches create a very heavy chunky fabric. They work well when what we want is to create is a warm cowl or neckline. 

 

To create this cuff you work in joined rounds, so the join needs to be in the least obvious place like the inner seam of the sleeve.

Usually the pattern begins with a round of Treble stitches (UK) (Dc-US). So,

Rnd1. Chain2 in first stitch, work a Treble (Dc-US) in each stitch around and join to Ch2 with a slip-stitch. Turn.

Rnd2. Ch2 in first stitch, (Front Post Treble, Back Post Treble) (FPDc,BPDc-US) around, join to Ch2 with a Slip-stitch. Turn.

Repeat Rnd2 to the desired length.

Back Loop Ribbing

This is the point at which I really wish we all spoke the same crochet language! So! UK-Back Loop Double Crochet Ribbing, US-Back Loop Single Crochet Ribbing.

This type of ribbing seems to have become increasingly popular, it certainly has the ribbed look. There is some stretch but no elasticity. In my example here the edging has actually ended up wider than the original fabric. I'll talk about how to adjust this in a moment.

 

This stitch is made by working in short rows of Double crochet (Sc-US) worked at 90o to the main fabric. The number of starting chain determines how long the cuff will be. I worked this example as follows...

 

Setup;

Slip-stitch join to a stitch on an inconspicuous part of the main fabric. Chain8.

Turn 90o, Double crochet in 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain to the end. [7Dc]

Double crochet 2together using the next 2 stitches on the main fabric.

Short row repeat;

Skip the last stitch made and Back Loop Double crochet in each of the 7stitches to the top of row, Chain1 and turn,

Back Loop Double crochet in each of the 7stitches to the bottom of row,

Double crochet 2together using next 2 stitches of the main fabric.

 

Repeat these last instructions around the cuff, collar or hemline. At the end either slip-stitch join to the starting chain from the inside or sew together for the most invisible join.

How could I have made this ribbing tighter? 

Obviously I could have opted for a smaller hook size.

Or, I could have adjusted the number of stitches I worked into on the main fabric. So, instead of Double crochet 2togther, I could have tried 3together.

Or, I could have reduced the number of stitches in the last row of the sleeve before starting to work the ribbing.

 

Flat Ribbing

If we took an iron to our Double crochet ribbing this is what it might look like! That's because it's a combination of Back Loop Double crochet ribbing and Slip-stitch ribbing.

This ribbing is very neat and it does reduce the circumference of the sleeve. It may be slightly more elastic than the Back Loop Ribbing above. However it has a peculiarity in that it leans slightly to the right.

Once again this stitch is made by working in short rows worked at 90o to the main fabric. The number of starting chain determines how long the cuff will be. I worked this example as follows...

 

Setup;

Starting on the Right Side of the fabric, Slip-stitch join to a stitch on an inconspicuous part of the main fabric. Chain9.

Turn 90o, Double crochet in 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain to the end. [8Dc] 

Slip-stitch into each of the next 2 stitches of the main fabric, turn.

Row1. Wrong Side. 

[I'm going to ask you to do a weird thing now to avoid the working yarn trailing and making an unsightly lump on the front of your work. Turn the work so that the working yarn is in front of you, then take the yarn to the back between your hook and the ribbing, over the 2 slip-stitches you just made.]

Skip 2 slip-stitches, Back Loop Slip-stitch into each of the 8 double crochet, Chain1 and turn.

Row2. Right side.

Skip the chain and Back Loop Double crochet into each of the next 8 slip-stitches, 

Slip-stitch into the next 2 stitches of the main fabric, turn.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 around to the start. The neatest join is achieved by needle joining into your starting chain stitches.

The back loop slip-stitches in this pattern need to be made reasonably loosely as you work back into them. If you have not used Slip-stitches in this way before the post I wrote here might be helpful.

Slip-Stitch Ribbing

It's my opinion that Slip-stitch crochet creates the most successful and most stretchy ribbing. It just takes a little practice and patience.

You can see that this type of rib noticeably reduces the circumference of the sleeve while still allowing it to stretch over my hand. It will loosen it's elasticity with wear, but regain it when washed.

 

We are of course working in short rows, made at 90o to the main fabric. The number of starting chain determines how long the cuff will be. I worked this example as follows...  

 

Setup;

Slip-stitch join to a stitch on an inconspicuous part of the main fabric. Chain9.

Turn 90o, Skip the first chain, Slip-stitch through the top loop of each chain  to the end. [8 Slip-st] 

Slip-stitch into each of the next 2 stitches of the main fabric, turn.

 Row1;

[When you to turn the work and the working yarn is in front of you, take the yarn between your hook and the ribbing, over the 2 slip-stitches you just made.]

Skip 2 slip-stitches, Back Loop Slip-stitch into each of the 8 slip-stitches to the top, Chain1 and turn.

 

Row2:

Skip Chain1, Back Loop Slip-stitch into each of the 8 slip-stitches to the bottom,

Slip-stitch into each of the next 2 stitches of the main fabric, turn.

 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 around to the start. The neatest join is achieved by needle joining into your starting chain stitches.

 

Elastic Ribbing

I had read that it was possible to hold a fine elastic thread along with your yarn when crocheting a rib to create something which remained stretchy. I imagined that it would be difficult to work but had never tried, until now! It is possible to get the elastic in various colours so that the elastic won't be too obvious. Ordinarily a slightly darker shade usually works best just as it does when choosing thread for sewing. For this illustration I used a black elastic so that you can see it.

The ribbing is worked in exactly the same way as the Back Loop Slip-stitch rib. I just held the elastic thread and the yarn together as I worked. This is my first attempt and you can see that the ribbing is tighter. It has less stretch but more spring! What I learnt was that I should have gone up a hook size. So I decided to have another go.

When I finished I simply cut the elastic leaving a long tail and wove it in, in the normal way just as I did with the yarn ends.

Next time you see a ribbed cuff, collar or hem in a pattern you get to choose how you would like to make it!

Fastening off...