Discovering Continental Looping

 This is not the first time that I have found myself the victim of my own conceit! Scroll back a few months and I was congratulating myself for a most comprehensive post on Broomstick Lace. Thanks to reader Tanya I have now discovered Continental Looping.

In truth, I have only found one reference to Continental Looping. Possibly it is now known by a different name or has fallen out of fashion altogether. It appears to be a cross over between crochet and netting. When I say netting I am not really talking about fishing nets but more akin to something very delicate your great grandmother might have made. (This quick video will give you an idea about that kind of netting.)

Both techniques use a flat gauge. My searches have shown these gauges are hard to find, so you might be forced to make your own, or customise one. For the purpose of experimentation a thin ruler might suffice. As it doesn't actually use a broomstick perhaps it's exclusion from the earlier post is forgivable!

The instructions I have, can be found in The 1982 Batsford publication; The Techniques of Crocheted & Openwork Lace, by Ena Maidens. The information is limited and confusing, to say the least. I am having to be creative with my interpretation! There appear to be at least two ways to make the loops used in this type of work.

 

Method One

This method uses double loop stitches.

Chain any number of stitches. 

Forward row:

Enlarge the last loop on the hook and slide it onto the  gauge. Do not remove the hook from this loop.

Bring the hook and the length of chain to the top edge of the gauge. The length of chain hangs down the front, the working yarn to the back and the hook is held parallel to the top of the gauge.

With the hook still in the enlarged loop, place the hook down through the first chain. I'm working into the back bump but you should do whatever feels right to you.

With the working yarn to the back of the gauge, bring the yarn down the back and up the front. Allow the yarn to wrap over the hook before taking it down the back and bringing it up the front again. 

The next bit is tricky but after much frustration you will quickly find the knack!!!

Take that second wrap on the hook and pull it under the first wrap. Try using your left hand thumb to pull that first loop over the hook.

Now give the hook a gentle tug and bring the hook through the chain stitch as well. You have two loops remaining on the hook.

Yarn over the hook and bring through the remaining two loops.

* Now with the loop on the hook place the hook down through the next chain. Wrap the yarn as before and pull the 2nd wrap through the 1st and the chain. YO and pull through the remaining two stitches.

Repeat from* to the end of the row.

 

Return row:

Remove the loops from the gauge and make a short length of chain to be the same height as the gauge.

Make a Slip-stitch into each pair of loops to the end of the row. Work the last loop on it's own.

At the end of the row enlarge the loop on the hook and repeat the forward and return rows.

On the forward row, work into the slip-stitches instead of the foundation chain.

  

Method Two 

This method creates more complex designs using groups of loop stitches. The chain stitches are not made first, but rather at the same time the loops are made. It uses single Loop stitches.

There are different elements which we can use together to form more complex patterns. 

For instance:

Row1

Chain2, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge. This time the chain stitches and working yarn run along the base of the gauge.

(Put the hook into the first chain pull up a loop and Chain2, enlarge the new loop and slide onto the gauge)

repeat to the desired length.

Row2

For the next row either:

• Fasten off at the end of the previous row and begin the new one with a slip knot on the hook,    

•  Chain to the height of the gauge as we did in Method One, Or     

• Bring the working yarn up to the top of the first loop, put the hook into this loop, pull through the yarn and Chain1,
  
  then Dc into the same loop. Now remove the first row from the gauge. Pull up a new loop and place on the gauge. 

For the next loop; (place the hook down behind the front loop of the dc, pull through the yarn and Chain1, Dc in the next loop, pull up the loop on the hook and place on the gauge)

repeat to the desired length.

We can gather together the loops as we might with Broomstick Lace.

 

And we can make lengths of chain between each loop or each group of loops.

 

We can put more than one loop into each preceding loop or chain stitch.

For instance:

Begin as before with Chain2, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge.

(Put the hook into the first chain, pull through the yarn and Chain1, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge) repeat until there are 4 loops on the gauge.

*Put the hook back into the same base chain, pull through the yarn again and Chain8. Enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge.

(Put the hook into the 7th chain this time, pull through the yarn and Chain1, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge) repeat until there are 4 loops on the gauge.

Repeat from* to make groups of four loops until reaching the desired length.

 There are a few stitch designs in the publication but I'm afraid they have defeated me on this occasion! If you want to try them for yourself you will have to look for a copy of; 'The Techniques of Crocheted & Openwork Lace' by Ena Maidens, published by Batsford 1982. ISBN 0713425687. If you are able to work any of them out I would be grateful if you would explain it to me!

 

Fastening off... 

Discovering Broomstick Lace

     Broomstick Crochet is almost the odd-man-out in the crochet world. It's enigmatic and elusive, leaving me with more questions than answers. It seems to go by an unbelievable number of names; Witchcraft crochet, Jiffy lace, Peacock's Eye, Bird's Eye, Peruvian stitch. It was made by American settlers, or taken to America by the pilgrim fathers, or was used in traditional Croatian lace. It is from the 1600's, or 1800's!

    If we try to put it in a category it must belong with Hairpin Lace and Solomon's Knot, or even Tunisian crochet. It uses elongated loops of yarn. This makes it a great way to use some of the more troublesome yarns that have been devised, like Mohair, tape and fashion yarns. It has another thing in common with Tunisian crochet in that it is made in two passes both from the right side only. Just like it's cousins it is most often presented in it's simplest form only. I have a sneaky suspicion that there may be more to Broomstick lace than first meets the eye. Let's see what we can discover about Broomstick lace!

    Let's start by assembling our tools. Unless you want to go super chunky you won't be needing a broom stick. That's a relief! A stick or pin with a pointy end, a knitting needle is perfect. It doesn't need to be round, so you could use a ruler, but it does need to be a little longer than the fabric you are making. It is possible to work in the round so we could use a knitting needle with a flexible cable, or multiple needles as is done when knitting in the round. For a non-knitter I have found that having both a stick and a hook to manipulate is troublesome! It helps if you can wedge the stick under your arm or between your legs. It also helps if your stick is wooden as it's less slippy, and therefore more controllable.

    Before we go any further I have to tell you that there are two methods for creating the loops. !!This is really important!! I cannot tell you how many hours I have spent wondering why, the one set of patterns I had, did not look like all the other ones. So, we have the No-Turn standard method, and the Turn Margaret Wilkes method.

    The most simple version of Broomstick lace begins with a row of chain or Double crochet (Sc-US). In each of these stitches we pull up a loop, slipping each one onto a stick as it is made. A the end of the row, we make a Dc (Sc) into each loop.  I was so surprised by this simple fabric. Let me show it to you and use it to illustrate the difference between the Turn and No-Turn methods.

 

No-Turn Standard Method.

   [These instructions assume that you are right-handed. For the left-handed please reverse the instructions. They are also written in UK terminology. (US in brackets)]

First a row of chain stitches. It can be any length. Then a Dc (Sc) in each of these stitches.

Row1: Now take up the stick in the left hand. We are working from left to right for this row.

With the working yarn behind the hook, extend the loop which is already on the hook and slip it onto the end of the stick.

Place the hook into the next stitch, under both loops, catch the yarn and pull up a loop, slip it onto the hook; continue to pull up a loop in each stitch and place each onto the stick.

However you pull up these loops ensure that each one is pulled up and placed on the stick in the same way, so that all the loops turn in the same direction. 

At the end of the row Do Not turn!

Row2: Now we make a return pass, working from right to left.

For the end stitch we must work a locking stitch.

Slide the first loop off the stick and onto the hook. Grab the working yarn with the hook and pull through the loop,

yarn over the hook and pull through the loop on hook, creating a Chain, this is the locking stitch. We only need to make one locking stitch at the end of the row.

Place the hook back into the extended loop and work a Dc (Sc).

One by one, slide each loop from the stick and work a Dc into each. 

Repeat rows1 and 2 to the desired length.

 

What we have is a light weight soft fabric. On the reverse side we see a bulky row of Dc. This basic variant reminds me of Tunisian crochet. 

Turn Margaret Wilkes Method

First a row of chain stitches. It can be any length. Then a Dc (Sc) in each of these stitches.

Row1: Place the stick between your legs, or balance upright in your lap. With the foundation on the left side of the stick extend the loop which is already on the hook and slip it onto the end of the stick. We are working from right to left.

Place the hook into the next stitch, under both loops, catch the yarn and pull up a loop, slip it onto the hook; continue to pull up a loop in each stitch and place each onto the stick. However you pull up these loops ensure that each one is pulled up and placed on the stick in the same way, so that all the loops turn in the same direction.

Turn the fabric to the right hand side of the stick. 

 

Row2: Now we make a return pass, but we are still working from right to left.

For the end stitch we must work a locking stitch.

Slide the first loop off the stick and onto the hook. Grab the working yarn with the hook and pull through the loop,

yarn over the hook and pull through the loop on hook, creating a Chain, this is the locking stitch. We only need to make one locking stitch at the end of the row.

Place the hook back into the extended loop and work a Dc (Sc).

One by one, slid each loop from the stick and work a Dc into each.

 Repeat rows1 and 2 to the desired length.

 

We still have a light weight soft fabric. But on the Front face, the Dc appears as a row of chain and the bulk has gone. The reverse side is smooth.

It is possible to make a single row of front-loops appear at the base of the long-loops. This was achieved by working the No-Turn method and putting the hook under the back loop only before pulling up a long-loop. 

Or by working the Turn method and pulling the long-loops up from under the back-loop only.

Yet another version is achieved by working slip-stitches in place of the Dc. This time on the No-Turn method the Long-loops are pulled up under the back loop only...

Or the Turn method and pulling the long-loops up from under the back-loop only!

 

To save me time (and from going completely mad), from now on I am going to use the Turn Method for all my samples, because I personally prefer it. I am pulling the loops up from under both loops of the preceding row. Now you know what the possibilities are, you get to make your own choices!

The loops can be grouped together to create the stitch which you are probably more familiar with.

Any number of stitches can be grouped together. Here I have put the hook through four loops at the same time, made the locking stitch in the first cluster

followed by 4Dc (Sc) into the gathered loops.

Here I have grouped together 5 loops and used a larger pin. 

What size stick/pin should you use? In these samples I am using a 4ply yarn with a 3.5mm hook. The smaller sample was made on a 10mm knitting needle and the larger a 15mm needle. So depending on the number of loops you are gathering, the weight of yarn, and the effect you are looking for, you may wish to go as large as a 25mm (size 50 US) Knitting needle.

Any size of stitch can be used to group the loops. Here I have used 4Tr (Dc).

Another way to add in larger stitches, might be to add a row of Tr (Dc) between rows of Broomstick. 

Here I have worked a row of Dc (Sc); a 'Turn' row of Broomstick with a Dc return pass; in a contrast yarn and on the wrong side, a row of Tr (Dc) made into front-loop only. These 4 rows are repeated.

The number of stitches we make in the second row/return pass has to be equal to the number of loops we are using. But we can play around with their placement.

In this swatch I have grouped 5 loops with just a single Dc (Sc) and 4 chain in between the clusters. There needs to be a single loop at either end of the stitch pattern. The stitch pattern works best with an odd number of loops.

We need to add an extra row of Dc, in which we place 4 Dc into the 4 chain; and then to get back onto the right side we have to make another row of Dc before pulling up the Broomstick loops once again.

So far all of our Broomstick sit in neat columns one on top of the other. It is possible to stagger the rows. On the base row, the clusters have 6 loops with 6Dc in each cluster. But the next row, the end clusters have only 3 loops with 3 Dc in the clusters, those in between have 6 loops and 6Dc. These two cluster rows are repeated.

 

You will want to know how to increase and decrease if you want to make anything except a very basic design. There are different ways to do this but these are my preferred methods.

Let's start with decreasing because it's the most obvious. We are able to decrease by altering the number of Dc (Sc) we make into each cluster of loops on the return pass.

In this image my clusters have 4 loops each. From the second cluster row only 2Dc are made into the end clusters. This decreases the following row by one whole cluster.

To increase we pull up additional loops by working under both back and front loops at the end of the rows.

In this image my clusters have 4 loops. From the second cluster row 2 additional loops are pulled up in each of the end clusters. This increases the following row by one whole cluster.

This increase technique can also be used to turn a corner.

I started with a base row of 16 stitches. I've pulled up one loop only in each of the outer 6 stitches, but in the central 4 stitches I pulled up two loops, by working under both front and back loop. This means that I've finished with 5 clusters each with 4 loops, so that it is finished with 20 Dc.

Wouldn't it be nice if we could use Broomstick clusters without the stick and just like any normal stitch? Can we make them just like we did with Solomon's Knot stitches last month? Well of course we can! We need to make the stitches just a little differently, but when you consider it, Broomstick clusters are just complex Solomon's Knots. 

Because we are working individual clusters, one at a time, we don't need a stick. Working from right to left, as you would with standard crochet, pull up the loop on the hook to your chosen height and one loop in each of the next three stitches. With the hook through all 4 loops, grabbing the working yarn from the left and make one locking chain stitch. Now you can finish with 4 Dc.

For the next clusters in the row; keep the loop on the hook and pull up an extended loop in each of the next 4 loops. There is no need to make the locking chain, simply make 4 Dc. 

In my first sample, after I made the cluster row, I have made an additional row of Dc on the wrong side, so that the next row of Broomstick clusters all face the right side.

In my second example I have tried combing the clusters with a Treble (Dc), by placing a Treble between each cluster. Because I have begun with a tall stitch there is no need to make the locking stitch. I made a second row of Dc again, but this time into the front loop only.

I am not honestly happy with either of these experiments. This fabric has a definite right side only. Unless you are working in continuous rounds there must always be a wrong side row. That wrong side row seems to take the joy out of the stitch. 

This third sample uses a second colour to give more definition to the Broomstick row. I have worked a cross treble between the clusters for the same reason. In truth, I think this way of working is most successful when used as an edging stitch only.

 

I mentioned earlier that we can work Broomstick in the round by either using multiple sticks or a knitting needle with a cable. But why not use this individual cluster method?

I've made myself a base of Treble stitches (Dc). There are 12 stitches in the first round; 24 Treble in the second; 36 Treble in the third.

I've pulled up 3 loops in the back loop only and finished them with 5 Dc in each to accommodate the increasing dimensions of the circle.

 

And finally at the beginning I promised that you could use the most awkward yarns with this stitch, so I better check that it's true. I have used tape yarn in the past.

This particular yarn is from Wool and the Gang and is wider than anything I have used before. The recommended needle size is 8mm. I am using a 6mm crochet hook. As the biggest knitting needle I have is 15mm (size 19-US) I am holding two 15mm sticks together.

This is a fine Mohair yarn. I've only ever used it held together with another yarn. The recommended hook size is 3.5mm but I used 4mm and the 15mm knitting needle. It's not easy to work with!

 

Thank you for sticking with me to the end of this epic post! I hope I have found something that you would like to experiment with. Maybe you can find a way to successfully work with that individual cluster method.

 

Fastening off...