Live loop Crochet Cables

I've had a revelation!

I have been crocheting for over ten years and must be, by any definition, an experienced crocheter. And yet, the foundation of my crochet world has just shook. In my rush to learn everything it seems I have missed a basic understanding of crochet anatomy. I'm talking about the Live Loop or Golden Loop.

 

Let me explain!

When we are crocheting a Double Crochet (Sc-US) we begin with a loop on the hook. This loop will become the top of our next Dc.

 

Then we pull up a loop in the next stitch. This is the golden loop. This becomes the post of our Dc. The height of this loop determines the height of our finished stitch.

Next we have to join the post and top loops to complete the stitch. To do this we 'yarn over' and pull that loop through both the post-loop and top-loop.

Our Dc is completed. And the loop on the hook becomes the top of the next stitch.

 

But, what if we don't make that final stage?

What if we pull that final loop through just the post-loop?

We have created a Live Loop. A stitch which is still 'live' because it is not completed. 

 

Look we can create a whole row of 'live-loops'...

Then remove the hook and finish each in turn simply by pulling the live-loop through the preceding stitch.

 

Sometimes the best ideas are the simplest. Grounded in a thorough understanding of the physics of crochet, Sue Perez, aka Mrs Micawber, has found a way to create cable stitches using live-loops. She published her book, Live Loop Cables in Crochet, in 2020 and I have been putting off learning this skill for no good reason I can think of! Sue Knits and crochets, I think this idea is derived from her knowledge of both crafts. I am not a knitter and I am a little over awed by the whole idea!

 

Fortunately, Sue has made this handy video for us. She explains it all so much better than I ever can!

 

I made this using the Practice Swatch.

Working in the round, from the front only, the cables are straight forward and prove no difficulty.

 

Block One: Straight Cables

 

Working in rows, from the back and front, the cables are a little different and require more attention. There seems to be a lot of information at the beginning of the book which you might find off putting. Don't panic! The stitch patterns are organised in a systematic way. If you work through them, one by one, your skills will develop in easy steps. At the start of each new design you are told what you will learn and where, in the book, you will find the technical information.

 

Block Two: Meeting in the Middle

 

There are 25 stitch designs which each form a patchwork block. You can use the blocks to make the scarf in the pattern section. Or you could make one of the other ten patterns which are varied and interesting.

Block Three: Travelling Cables

In my first attempt at these cables I failed miserably! There is a lot to take on board, and, like a bad workman I blamed my tools. Sue recommends we begin with a worsted weight yarn and at least a 5mm hook. As a non wool user the right kind of yarn is hard to find. The samples I made here use VeganYarn.Co.UK's Chunky weight Cotton Bouclé.

We also need a stitch marker to park the live loops on. Sue recommends a hair grip bent in a certain way to form a sort of closed 'U' shape. Once I had the right tools and watched Sue's videos, I found I could finally make progress!

What's so good about live loop cables? Well for one thing they can be made to bend in any direction. They are soft and flexible. They can cross and create all of the classic knitted Aran designs. Unlike the post stitch versions they're not heavy or stiff. The cables are, in effect, made on the surface of your fabric, so they don't leave those little holes in the fabric that happen when working with post stitches.

Block Four: Raised Cables with Bobbles

Sue's book is still available, so I suggest you grab a copy quick. If you have it already and like me didn't initially make progress. Go on, give it another go!! My advice for using this book would be to gather together some Aran/Worsted weight yarn, large hooks and the stitch markers. Then read through the Chapter on Necessary terms before skipping ahead to the practise swatch. Work your way systematically through the stitch patterns. As you progress you will find your understanding growing. From time to time you may want to refer back to the other information in the book, when Sue directs you to. By the time you get to the projects you will be an expert!

Block Five: Curved Cables with Popcorns

 

At the start I struggled to make the most simple of cables. Indeed, experienced Live-Loopers will spot mistakes in these blocks! But, with each mistake my understanding increases and with each new challenge my skill level rises.

 

Block Six: Honeycomb Cables

 

It has reminded me of what it was like to learn to crochet in the first place. All of the things I once struggled with; like how to hold the hook and yarn, I no longer give a seconds thought. 

 

Block Seven: Flat Rope Cables

 

I have been recording my progress on my Ravelry page. Besides, I will continue to add my progress to this blog post, but I expect you will be wanting a new post next month, so progress may be intermittent! 

Block Eight: Ropes and Antlers

 

Fastening off...

 

  

Block Nine: Simple Crossed Cables

Block Ten: Offset Crossed Cables

Block Eleven: Double Helix

Block Twelve: Twisted Twist

Stealing Ideas from Mrs Micawber!

When Mrs Micawber said; " I've wanted to experiment with Hairpin Lace using chained stitches instead of yarn loops", my response was "Uh?"

Let's face it, I am not an innovator. I am good at some things, like asking, "why?" and "what if?", I also have the patience to research and experiment. Sue Perez, aka Mrs Micawber, most certainly is an innovator. So after spending some time not being able to solve the problem, Sue, was kind enough to send me a simple set of instructions. Eureka! The 'what if?' side of my brain set fire to itself! The important thing to note is that, this is hairpin lace without a frame!

Here's what Sue told me... "chain three...

* chain [the desired number for the loop size]...

turn, skip the loop chains and Dc (Sc-US) in each of the first three stitches...

Repeat from  *

I used 12 chains for the loop. Just as with Hairpin Lace the length of the loop depends on what you intend to do with the braid. But I'm getting ahead of myself!

The result feels a little dull so I start to think about ways to make it more interesting. [I aught to point out that I've made these examples in a relatively thick and unyieldy cotton yarn. Made in a lace weight or cotton thread the result would be quite different.]

What if we work alternately in back loop and then front loop only?

I set up this sample with 3+12 chains and worked the 3Dc (SC-US). On the even numbered rows I worked Back-Loop Dc stitches and Front-Loops Dc on the odd rows.

What if we use Half-Trebles (Hdc-US) and work in the third loop?

This begins in the same way with 3+12 chain and 3Half-treble (Hdc-US). On the even rows I worked into the third loops and on the odd rows the Front-Loops.

What if we work front and back post Trebles (Dc-US)?

It begins with 3+12 chains and 3Trebles (Dc-US). The even rows are Front-Post Trebles and the odd rows are Back-Post Trebles.

Making it this way it has a front and a back, which is which depends on what you are going for!

Alternatively I suppose you could make it with just Front Post stitches.

Now it looks the same on both sides.

 

Shells?

This was an accident, I was trying for crossed Trebles but it wasn't successful! This was my alternative, I suppose technically these are spike stitches. You'll need proper instructions for this.

Set up; 3+6 chains. Turn.

Row1; Skip the 6chain +another 2chain, 2Treble (Dc-US) in the last chain, Chain1, 2Treble in the first of the skipped 2chain and make around the first treble pair. 6chain. Turn.

Row2; Skip (6chain,2 treble,1chain) and make 2Treble in the next treble, Chain1, make 2Treble in the second of the skipped trebles. Chain6. Turn.

Repeat row2 to desired length.

 

Fans?

This begins 1+6Chains, I skipped the 6chains and made a fan of (2Treble,1Chain,2Treble) in the last chain.

For each of the following rows I made the fan into the central chain1 of the previous fan.

How about a shallower version?

Doesn't this look a lot like standard Hairpin lace? It begins 1+12Chains, followed by (1Double-crochet,1Chain,1Double-crochet) in the last chain. Just like before, this mini fan is made into the central chain1 of the previous row.

 

We've got to try Puff stitches, surely? 

I began with 1+6Chain as before and made a 4Half-Treble Puff (Hdc-US) into the last chain. For each of the following rows I made the puff into the top of the previous one.

 

Mrs Micawber said; "Then join the strips as you would for regular Hairpin Crochet."  Oh crikey!

Woven?

I made this exactly as if it was standard hairpin lace. I wove the loops by pulling the left hand loop through the right hand loop, and the right through the left.

Zig-zag?

This is another common join, making a Double-crochet (Sc-US) into one loop followed by one or more chain stitches and a Dc into the opposing loop. The loops can be kept straight or twisted.

Here I've gathered three loops together and added extra chains.

And double Zig-zag?

In this example the first strip is edged and then the strips joined as the second strip is edged. I have also gathered the loops together, joining two loops with a single Double-crochet.

We can edge the strips before joining them.

 

I can alter the shape of the chain loops by making more than one stitch in each loop.

I made 3Double-crochet into each of these loops.

Because the loops are made of chain stitches I can choose to work into the actual chains rather than into the loops themselves.

I've gathered three loops together by putting the hook through the back bump of a single chain from each of three loops and then made 3Double-crochet. This keeps the gathered stitches quite flat.

 Our options are endless, there are so many more possible variations for stitches and joins. Different yarns will create different results and how shall we use the result? As a fabric, as a braid, as a section or border within standard crochet. I'm seeing sweater borders, an inset yoke, a throw, a mandala... so before my brain explodes I'm off for a lie down!

fastening off (and lying down)...