Crochet Tips: Linked Stitches Part1

Lately I've been working with Linked Stitches and when searching for information I've found it to be very varied and confusing. I've also seen them called Connected Stitches. So here's my attempt at a definitive guide!

I foolishly assumed this was a relatively new stitch but then I found it in a reprint of the Nineteenth Century "Encyclopedia of Needlework" by Therese De Dillmont. Her instructions were confusing to say the least.

Although I could probably talk for hours about this stitch I will try to be succinct!

The important things to know are:

1. This stitch is like a vertical Tunisian stitch.
2. This stitch has a right and a wrong side, or rather it looks very different from the back. So if you want all your stitches facing the same way you need a work around.
   
3. You can link any stitch from Htr (Hdc-USA) and upwards in height. [Below are, Htr, Tr, Dtr.]
   
4. You'll need to use a much larger hook size than usual.
5. Everyone avoids telling you how to work in continuous rounds. Don't worry we'll be covering that in Part2 next week!

 Let's start with how to keep all your stitches facing the same way. In Robyn Chachula's "Crochet Stitches-Visual Encyclopedia", she suggests using an alternate row of Front Loop Dc (Sc-USA). This gives a nice extra horizontal line.

Dora Ohrenstein in her fabulous book "Top-Down Crochet Sweaters", uses Htr (Hdc-USA).

Here's how to make a Linked Stitch. 

Let's make a Trtr (Dtr-USA) (I'm working into a row of Foundation Dc) 

All rows start like this. Don't turn at the end of the previous row. Chain 4 sts. 

 

Pull up a loop in the back loop of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th chain from the hook. 

 Now turn and pull up a loop in the first stitch. 

 

Yarn Over (YO) hook and pull thru the first 2 sts on the hook.

 Repeat the last action 3 more times. [1st St made] 

For each consequent stitch: 

Pull up a loop in each of the three horizontal bars, from top to bottom. Place the hook down thru the horizontal bar, YO hook and pull up a loop.

Pull up a loop in the next stitch.

YO hook and pull a loop thru the first 2 loops on hook as before.

Repeat the last action three more times. [2nd stitch made]

 

To create a Dtr start with 3 chain sts, pulling up loops in the 2nd, and 3rd chain, but otherwise follow the instructions above.

A Tr starts with 2 chain sts, pulling up a single loop in the 2nd chain only, but otherwise follow the instructions above.

A Htr is just a tiny bit different.

Start with 2 chain sts. Pull up a loop in the 2nd chain st, and the next st. 3 loops on hook.

YO and pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

For all consequent stitches, pull up a loop in the horizontal bar and another in the next stitch.

YO hook and pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

Come back next week to find out how to join stitches in continuous rounds. I've got two different methods for you to try.

And don't forget to say Hi! if you pop by!

 

Free Pattern: TyreTread Doormat.

 

I promised a tenuous link to spring cleaning! At this time of year my doormats always look frightful. I've failed to find a mat that will go in the washing machine so I decided to make one!

  Once again I'm using Fred Aldous Bakers Twine. I've chosen the single colour  this time. It's a little softer than the 'Tri-ply'. There are plenty of colours to choose from. This one is Eton Blue.

 The stitch pattern I've gone for goes by a number of names. I'm calling it tyre tread because of the bold lines it makes. It's such a simple stitch and yet so fascinating. In the pattern I've suggested you use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch in the row to make turning easier. The pattern I've given you makes a doormat size mat. 

 I've finished it with Treble edging just to make it look a little neater and a little 'less-trip-overable'. (Suggestions for a better word to use here, on a postcard please!) It would also make a great bath mat at the same size. If you went bigger of course you could make a rug. To make it more durable try something like Pepperell Bonnie Macrame cord; either in 3mm or 6mm. Last time I looked they sold it in white and black at Fred Aldous. If you're in the States of course you'll have no trouble getting it!

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Finished Size: 49 x 65 cm
Gauge: 13 Treble Sts x 7.5 rows = 10cm

UK Terminology:

Ch     - Chain

Htr   - Half Treble

NJ    - Needle Join 

Slst  - Slip Stitch

St    - Stitch

Tr    - Treble

 

You will need:

5 cones of Fred Aldous Bakers Twine 100M

1 bottle of Rico Sock Stop

4.5mm (No7) Hook

Large Tapestry Needle

2x Stitch Markers of different colours.

Chain 96 Sts.

Row 1.   Slst in 2nd chain from hook. Mark this st.

            (Htr in next st, Slst in next st) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.

Row 2.   Ch2, [counts as first htr]. Mark this st.

            (Slst in next htr, Htr in next slst) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.

Row 3.   Slst in next htr, Mark this st.

            (Htr in next slst, Slst in next Htr) repeat to end. Mark last st. Turn.

Row 4-80. Repeat  rows 2 and 3.

Row 81.  Ch3, or Starting Tr in first st, Tr in each st across. Fasten off.

Row 82.  Ch3, or Standing Tr in first st, Tr in each st across.

    Fasten off and weave in ends.

There should be no need to block your work but if required try ironing on reverse with a steam iron.

Now find a safe flat place or a board to put your mat on while you apply the Sock Stop, away from little fingers or inquisitive pets! Place dots of Sock Stop on raised areas of stitching. Dots work better than lines, they are less likely to peel off when the mat stretches.

Leave overnight to dry. 

 

Book Review: Crochet Lace Innovations

Santa Kindly bought me a copy of Doris Chan's Crochet Lace Innovations. Santa also left a note in the book which reads "I like this one". I think that's a hint!!

The book legend reads 'Broomstick, Hairpin, Tunisian and Exploded Lace.' The main premise of the book is about using thicker yarn and larger size hooks than usual. My own crochet style is quite tight but I've been trying to develop a looser style for garments, so I thought this book might be helpful. It's a bit outside my comfort zone.
There is basically a chapter on each of the disciplines with a number of different garments to make.  If like me you are a bit unsure, there are some quicker makes, like belts, scarves and wraps. There is plenty of good reading if you like to curl up in bed with a good crochet book!
At the end of the book she offers a basic pattern template for a Jacket and a skirt. It is the one used for all the garments in the book. These patterns come with 'Fit Tips' so that you can add or remove sleeves, collars, tailoring etc. I really hate instructions that insist there is only one way to do things. I'm all about customising, we're all creative beings. So all this gets a big thumbs up from me!
As a dyslexic there is nothing more horrifying than page after page of abbreviated crochet instructions. Ms Chan has very cleverly kept this to minimum by offering stitch diagrams showing the basic pattern plus how it changes for increases, decreases and working in the round. 
 You don't have to have ever used any of the techniques before as there are excellent drawings to help. I thought I'd try out some of the stitch patterns.

 So working in order, this is my attempt at Broomstick lace. We all know that practice makes perfect but at first I was disappointed by my efforts. Eventually I started to get there and was inspired enough to have a go at some of the patterns in Betty Barden's Handbook Book of Crochet Stitches.

As for Hairpin lace, well I don't think it's for me! My own choice of bamboo yarn, (on the left) was probably a bad choice as it has a loose twist and splits easily.

  

Here's my attempt at Tunisian Crochet. It took quite a bit of practice to get use to handling that big long hook and I found I had to change my grip from pen to knife. Once again I had a go at some more examples this time from Robyn Chachula's 'Visual Encyclopedia'.

 The other chapters are quite straight forward, using much larger hooks than you'd expect, turning huge motifs and exploded doilies into stylish garments.
All in all Doris Chan has left me feeling inspired!
I'm afraid that was the last of my crochet inspired Xmas gifts so pop back in a fortnight for a tenuous link to spring cleaning!
(Don't forget to say Hello if you pop by!)

Book Review: Around the Corner Crochet Borders

I thought we'd take a break from photo tutorials and look at what I got for Christmas! So here's a review of Edie Eckman's Crochet Borders.

"150 colorful, creative crocheted edgings". That's all I need to say really, colour and alliteration, you know I love this book! I sat down with it the other night and tried out a few of the designs. (Please don't look too closely at my attempts as there may be a few mistakes and some are not exactly as written by Edie.)

The selling point for this book comes from the fact that all the designs come with full instructions for the corner. If you want to just add a frilly edging to a towel or a hanky, working back and forth, well that's covered too.

Edie is a knitting and crochet instructor, as you'd expect her instructions are clear and comprehensive. I learnt a lot just from the first few pages. I now know how to crochet into the selvage and how to add crochet to fabric. The actual instructions also include diagrams which is a plus for dyslexics and also avoids any confusion over stitch names.

The designs themselves are really creative. There is everything you can imagine from lacy to solid borders. And there is plenty of variety. I came across a lot of unusual stitches that I just had to try out. I even encountered the horizontal puff stitches I blogged about recently.

This seemingly frilly edging is actually Treble (UK) stitches made horizontally.

 There are some which use post stitches to give texture.

This one is folding stitches. Making little samples like these is a great way to improve your skills as well as trialing something before committing to a larger project. My problem is I never can choose one over another!

This edging struck me as really original. The post stitches are made around two stitches at the same time.

 This border intrigue me as it used a stitch called herringbone. After attempting the border I just had to try the stitch out as a swatch. The texture just doesn't come across in the photo. The inside is smooth. Unfortunately it can only be worked up from the right side, so needs to be made in rounds.

I wish I'd put this book on my wish list earlier. I feel really inspired to try out something new. Thank You Santa!

 

P.S. If you happen to pop by, please say Hello! It's very lonely here on my own!

 

Colour Theory for Crochet

Picking the wrong colour yarn can be an expensive mistake, as I discovered recently! I chose the wrong colours because I forgot to  use the theory.

Some of you lucky people are naturally geniuses when it comes to colour but if you're like me and need a little help here is my guide.

First of all it might be helpful if we looked at a colour wheel.

The colours are laid out in the order they appear in a rainbow. The CreativeColorWheel has two sides. On one side the colours or hues are mixed with black - shades. On the other side the hues are mixed with white - tints or pastels.

Here's the boring bit.

 

Red, yellow and blue are Primary colours, they cannot be created by mixing any other colours together.

 

Orange, green and violet are Secondary colours, created by mixing two Primary colours together.

 

The additional hues are created by mixing a Primary and a Secondary colour together, they are the Tertiary colours. A colour circle can have as many Tertiary hues as you want, my example only shows 6.

Here are some ways to choose colour schemes.

The two main ways to pick colours is to choose either Harmonious or Contrasting. 

Lets start with Harmonious. You could select from:

• The Warm uplifting colours, which use red, orange and yellow.

 

•  The Cool calming colours, which use blue, green and violet.

•  Analogous colours are next to each other on the wheel and share something in common; in this example orange, yellow and green all share yellow in common.

• Monochromatic colours are variations of the same hue; in this example just orange including pastels (tints), and dark shades.

For more dramatic effects, choose from Contrasting schemes:

•  Complimentary colours are directly opposite each other on the wheel, they have nothing in common; in this example red and green, the colours of Christmas.

•  Split Complimentary, this is where we start drawing triangles! Choose three adjacent colours and add in the Complimentary opposite.

•  Triadic, imagine an equilateral triangle in the centre of the wheel and use the colour at each point.

•  Double Complimentary, if you want to go for something really dramatic. Try using two pairs of complimentary which is what I did when I made LillaBjorn's Sunny Mandala.
  

You might have noticed that there are a few colours missing from our colour circle.

Brown and Burgundy are a mix of Red, Yellow and Blue, so they don't fit anywhere on the wheel. For these colours I recommend you use the closest orange Shade for brown and the closest violet-red Shade for burgundy.

Black and white are also missing but you don't need me to tell you that they both go with any hue you can possibly imagine!

Grey being both black and white also looks fabulous with any other colour. But a note of caution; Grey is never just black and white. Sometimes it contains a drop of blue, or a hint of yellow or even a splodge of red. So take that grey to the daylight and compare it with your selection to make sure it really is the right tone you need!

Hopefully I will take my own advice and not make any more costly mistakes!!