Book Review: Japanese Wonder Crochet

This month I'm reviewing Nihon Vogue's Japanese Wonder Crochet. While this book is quite different from any crochet book I've seen before, my first thought is what makes it Japanese? The model clearly isn't Japanese and the stitch patterns aren't, Bavarian and Turkish Lif for instance. The designers, the yarn, and the original publishers are however. Perhaps it's also reflected in the understated photographic styling and the nature inspired colourways. But the most prominent element is the instructions, which are almost entirely in diagrams and charts.

If you've never seen the book or any other Japanese crochet publication I can imagine that you are a little confused right now, so let me explain! 
Each of the stitch designs comes with a swatch sized symbol chart, and many of these are accompanied by step-by-step photos and written instructions. This allows you to try out and practise the stitches before committing yourself. It also helps to get you familiarised with the way the symbol charts are written. Besides, of course, checking your gauge!
At the back of the book there's an excellent section explaining all the stitches, nothing is left to chance. You're never given some vague instructions, like "double crochet along the edge", or "seam together", without being shown how it is to be done.
Now we come to the actual patterns. You will find all the usual information about materials, hook size, gauge and finished size. The important bit, the 'Points', are the actual instructions which are no more than a paragraph long. They basically explain the order of work. There may be a schematic showing all the dimensions and how everything is joined together. And then there are the symbol charts. Around the charts and schematics are lots of extra notations. Although the book uses American terminology, this isn't a problem for UK readers as stitch symbols are universal.

It seemed to me the only way I could really review this book was to try out some of the projects. So I chose to start with the Mini-Pouch in waffle stitch, by Yoko Imamura, as it was small!! (As I am currently stash busting my oddments I am using all the wrong yarn!) I managed to pick one of the stitch patterns that does not have a photo tutorial and I did not read the instructions in enough detail before starting. Here's what I learnt!!

The symbol charts are drawn as if you are looking at them from the front. So the diagram shows some of the post stitches as back post stitches, even though you work them as front post stitches when you are on a wrong side row! The confusion that ensued was all mine as the information was right there in front of me. I felt that the chart could have been drawn much larger which would have been of benefit to these poor eyes.

But on the up side, when it came to stitching the sides I knew exactly where to put my stitches and I love the 'whip stitch weave' used to join the two sides.

Next I decided to try the scale stitch Cowl, by Ha-Na. This time there is a photo tutorial, which teaches you how to work in a continuous round, changing colour as you go and carrying the yarn. I actually had some trouble with that seam and in the end I drew myself a little colour coded chart. Because I'd worked a swatch I was able to get to grips with this issue before beginning the project, proper. (And once again I'm using the wrong yarns.)

 Just like the pattern I used different types of yarn, one fluffy and two smooth, but mine are more like Aran weight instead of the super bulky used in the pattern. That means I needed to add more rows, and I decided to make the width much narrower. Besides that though I kept to the colour sequence and colour proportions.

What I've ended up with is a snugly, comforting cowl which stands up on it's own. You can hide your face in this.

I wanted to know if all the information really could be included with so few words. Time to try something a little more complex. I went for the Maple Leaf Granny Bag. It should be made using an Aran weight cotton/linen ribbon. I didn't!

The swatch is for three colours. The stitch pattern appears to be quite complex at first glance. While I wouldn't recommend it for beginners, all the information for the stitches is shown in the 'Technique Guide' and the chart makes the stitch positions clear. I was quickly able to pick up the rhythm. My only unanswered question was whether to 'carry' my yarn between rows or fasten off. In the end I did a bit of both!

I messed about with the colouring of the handles and chose to do the top stitching in a contrasting colour. I'll leave it up to you to decide whether I made a good decision!  

I've always liked cable patterns, but I have convinced myself I'm not very good at them. What better excuse is there, than to challenge myself with a cable tea cosy?

The pattern calls for an Alpaca DK weight, so for my swatch I tried the Sirdar Just Soya that has been taking up space in my stash. After blocking the viscose yarn relaxed so completely it was clearly unsuitable for the job. But it did teach me the true benefit of swatching AND blocking!

Instead I decided to play yarn chicken with an ancient cotton/linen/viscose blend. I've probably gone to the opposite extreme. My tea cosy might have benefited from a softer yarn. The cosy is also sized for serious tea drinkers at a full 20"/50cm in diameter. For my one-woman pot I might have got away with a sport or even sock weight yarn. The cosy is also intended to have a bobble on top. It definitely needs something to finish it off. I picked up a handy hint from Fay Dashper-Hughes, about sewing a button to the base of your bobble so that it can be removed before washing.

 

If you're ever thinking of buying a pattern book without seeing it first, it's always a good idea to have a look for it on Ravelry. In the case of this book, Ravelry shows 18 patterns, although there are in fact 25 patterns in the book. If you want to know more details about the projects I have attempted, you will find them all included on my Ravelry 'Projects' page.

My final thoughts are these:

There are 12 bag, purse or pouch patterns in this book, so if you're a bag maker, then this is probably the book for you.

9 of the patterns use Bulky or Super Bulky yarn. So if you're a non wool user like me, then your choices are probably limited to acrylic yarns. 
You might also benefit from having some kind of magnifier to hand.
Personally, I think it was a good buy!

Keep staying safe,

Fastening Off...

InterLinked Crochet!

As promised I have finally got to this hugely fascinating topic. I actually used some interlinking crochet in my very first crochet design, 'Project Box', without realising what it was or that there might be any rules. As I'm a bit of a crochet anarchist anyway, that's probably just as well!! 
Bearing that in mind I am going to approach this subject with the widest possible parameters, why should we limit ourselves? So what do I mean by interlinked crochet? I mean any where that two (or more!) fabrics are made around each other without actually being joined (very much!).

In it's very basic form we could say that these circles are interlinked.

They are only locked into place when we add a further row of stitches.

In this design we can link two elements by making chain stitches wrap around the second element.

Once again we can add further rows.

Both of these designs and more can be found in Eddie Eckman's 'Connect the Shapes, Crochet Motifs'.

I fell over the next examples on the internet.

You can see how the chain stitches weave through to link the rows.

So now we move on to interlinked mesh. It uses the most basic square mesh made of Treble and Chain stitches (Dc & Ch-USA). It is made of two layers, which are linked together by being created simultaneously. So Colour A, row 1 is followed by Colour B, row 1 then back to Colour A for row 2, and so on.

This design is taken from Tanis Galik's 'Interlocking Crochet'.

Because of the way they are made the designs tend to be reversible. Sometimes they look the same on both sides, and sometimes they don't!

This pattern is used for two projects in Nihon Vogue's 'Japanese Wonder Crochet'.

Should you want to get really wild(!) you could step away from that simple  mesh and try something a little more complex. This design is called Kyoto, (if you're wondering why try googling a Toji temple.)

It's from Melissa Leapman's 'Indispensable Stitch Collection for Crocheters' as are the next two;

 

Interlocked Stripes,

And my favourite, Interlocked Diamonds.

For something less filet-mesh like you could try this reversible design from Nihon Vogue's 'Japanese Wonder Crochet'.

  Most of these stitches have been based on rows but it is possible to work in the round as with my final offering once again from Edie Eckman's 'Connect the Shapes, Crochet Motifs'.

By the time you get here you might be thinking, "Oh, you don't mean interlinked crochet, you mean..." Yes you're probably right! I have found this is one of the most confusing subject matters, with the most names and varied descriptions EVER! If you want to find more patterns, watch videos and see what you can make with it, here is a list of search terms you might want to try.
Interlinked, interlinking, interlocked, interlocking, locked, locking, intermeshed, layered, reversible, filet, double filet, mesh, Crochet!!!  Seriously, it's worth the effort because there are some truly stunning designs to be discovered.

A word of caution, these designs are very addictive!

 Fastening off...

P.S. If you are reading this anywhere near the date of posting, you may also be 'locked' down along with the rest of us. In which case please take care and be kind to each other. If you are reading this at some time in my distant future, well it's great to know we all came through. But still, take care and be kind to each other! Xx
P.P.S. Thanks D, for all your help with this post!

A Cavalcade of Crochet!

It occurs to me that we haven't talked about ALL the different types of crochet that exist in the world. I keep reading that crochet was invented by nineteenth century Irish women. Personally I don't believe it! When you start to investigate, it's not long before you realise that crochet is everywhere. It varies from culture to culture, and is used in different ways. When you think about how you can crochet with any long, thin, flexible 'fibre' and with just your finger it's not surprising.
I am often reminded of Edie Eckman's definition of crochet "Put your hook somewhere; Wrap the yarn over the hook; Pull the hook through something."
When I sat down to draw up a list of crochet sub genres I was truly amazed. This is far from being an exhaustive list. But if you thought you were bored with crochet perhaps you should look again!

•  3D- like many of these sub genres, they have sub genres within them. I'm thinking of wired flowers, starched shapes like bowls, and various types of thread work.
  
• Afghan- see Tunisian.
• Amigurumi- 3D objects, (characters, food, sea creatures and almost any weird and wonderful object you could possibly imagine) tightly crocheted and stuffed, usually worked in continuous double crochet (Sc-USA) spirals.
  
• Aran- faux Aran knitting, cables made using post stitches, popcorns and sometimes surface crochet. The islands of Aran are stuck out on the west coast of Ireland facing the full force of the Atlantic weather, so think warm and wind proof!
• Arm- supersized, hook free crochet!
• Bavarian- here's a picture because I'm not sure how to describe it!!
  

  

  Find in Edie Eckman's 'Connect the Shapes, Crochet Motifs'.
• Bead- think jewellery, purses and evening bags.
• Bosnian- see slip stitch.
• Bouclé- fur stitch, see loop.
  
  
• Brioche- faux brioche knitting using two or more colours and post stitches.

  

  From a Lilla Bjorn design.

• Broomstick- you don't really need to use a broomstick just a long stick which is used to create a row of equal size Loops. The loops are joined together in groups with the next row of crochet stitches.
  
• Bruges- a type of lace which is worked in short rows, allowing it to curve in any direction. Sometimes it's used to trap or join motifs as here.

  

  A Robyn Chachula design.
• Cable- see also aran. Aran work includes cables, but cable work doesn't have to be aran! Think Celtic cable knotwork.
  
• Charted- see corner to corner, enterlac, filet, mosaic, tapestry, and Tunisian. If you struggle with written patterns this may be the way to go. Drawn as a square chart, each square can represent a single stitch or a group of stitches depending on the technique.
• Chevron- there are so many variants on wave, zigzag and chevron designs I thought it should have it's own heading.
  
• Clothes line, crocheting over cord- used to make bowls, floor mats, and trivet style table mats.
• Colourwork- usually referring to intarsia and tapestry.
• Corner to Corner- where small blocks of crochet are worked in a continuous pattern from corner to corner. Similar to, but different from enterlac.
  
• Crocheting over- (curtain) rings, washers-these are joined together to make a fabric, belt/strap or used alone in decorations.
• Cro Hook- see Double ended.
• Doily- see also Mandala- Some doilies are made with thread crochet in the round but sometimes they are super sized into floor rugs!

  

  From a Doris Chan design.

• Double Ended- cro hook, cro knit and similar variants which use a double ended hook to make reversible fabric.
• Embossed-  I only spotted this one recently and can tell you nothing about the technique! This design can be found in Margaret Hubert's 'The Granny Square Book' and Colin and Baker's 'Ultimate Crochet Stitch Bible'.
  
• Enterlac- from a french word meaning to interlace. The fabric produced resembles interlaced fabric strips. In actual fact short rows are made to create blocks, crocheted one into another. It can be made using any crochet stitch.
  
• Enterlac, Tunisian- as enterlac was originally a knitting technique it is most obviously replicated by Tunisian crochet. As the blocks are so small it can be made with a standard length crochet hook.
  
• Filet- a lace worked in a grid pattern of squares using Treble stitches, (Dc-USA) some of the squares are filled while others are left open, creating a design or motif.
• Freeform- small areas of textured crochet are made and gradually joined to each other as the maker's whim takes them!
• Granny square- a quick and easy to make pattern of stitches often used by beginners.
• Hairpin- strips of 'lace' formed between two long forks or frames which are joined to each other. Although one stitch is usually shown there are many fascinating variants.
  
• Hyperbolic- crochet meets physics! Try this link for more information.
• Intarsia- the term is borrowed from a woodworking term where a motif is inlaid in the wood. For crochet it means a coloured motif is worked into fabric by carrying the two colours together and interchanging colours as required.
• Interlinked, interlocking or layered mesh- two or more colours of crochet which are interlinked with each other as the fabric is created. In other words the layers are made 'around' each other. Look out for a future blog post!

  

  From a design in Edie Eckman's 'Connect the Shapes'.
• Irish- an imitation lace which became fashionable in Victorian England.
• Lace- crocheting a lacy fabric or lacy trim for linens and clothes.

  

  From a design in Edie Eckman's 'Around the Corner, Crochet Borders'.
• Lace Weight- a weight of yarn generally used with an oversized hook.
  
• Lace, oversized- an open fabric created with a heavier weight of yarn.
• Linked- this is a way of producing tall stitches which are joined in the middle. It creates a very stable fabric with a tramline effect.
  
  
• Loom- (OK so strictly speaking it's a knitting technique, but as there are no needles involved I'm adding it to our list!) think french knitting, luceting, and loom flowers which which can be joined with crochet in the same way as hairpin lace.
• Loop- there are various methods, like Bouclé stitch, to create loopy fur like fabric. I'm not sure whether it deserves it's own category or not!
  
• Mandala- a circular design worked in many colours.

  

  From a Lilla Bjorn design.
• Mesh- an open, grid like lace.
  
• Mosaic- usually two colours of yarn worked alternately. The rows cross in front and behind each other to form a geometric pattern. Martin-Up-North has the best description and examples here.
  
• Overlay- developed by Melody MacDuffee to produce complex multi-colour patterns. The base layer is worked in 'back-loop-only' stitches, leaving the front loops free to anchor the long stitches.
  

  

  From a Melody MacDuffee design.
• Painted- a technique of using several coloured threads together at the same time. By changing the individual threads the colour is slowly changed as the design is worked.
  
• Patchwork- a number of motifs are made and joined together either 'as you go' or at the end.
• Pineapple- a mesh-like lace stitch which is usually worked with thread.
  
• Reversible Fabrics- any design which looks as good from the back as it does from the front.
  

  

  From a design in Edie Eckman's 'Connect the Shapes'.
• Shepherds- see slip stitch.
• Slip stitch- probably the oldest form of crochet. The stitches can be made in a number of ways to produce a close warm and sometimes stretchy fabric.
  
  
• Solomon's knot or Lover's knot- a lace made using oversized chain stitches.
  
  
• Spike stitch- the hook is initially inserted either lower or to one side of the normal position and the yarn is then pulled up loosely, back to the normal position, where the stitch is finished.
  
  
• Surface crochet- the crochet stitch is formed on the flat surface of the fabric, the hook in front and the yarn behind.
• Tambour- officially I suppose it's a kind of embroidery, but it's most certainly crochet! see Surface crochet.
• Tapestry- think of Fair Isle designs. This is when two or more colours of yarn are carried together, changing from one colour to another as required in the same row.
• Thread- delicate designs are worked using a fine yarn. The yarn weights are described with numbers where the larger the number, the finer the thread. The fine crochet hooks required are made from steel for strength.
  
  
• Tunisian- a cross between knitting and crochet, the fabric is worked a row, rather than a stitch, at a time. The hook required is a long knitting needle but with a hook on the end, sometimes called a Tricot needle. Each row is made in two passes, forwards and backwards. On the forwards pass the new stitches are begun and placed on the hook/needle. On the backwards pass they are completed and removed from it.
  
  
• Wire- I blogged about this here.
  
  
• Woven- examples might be; where strips of crochet are woven with each other; where something is woven into a crochet fabric; where elements within a crochet design are interwoven.

  

  From a BebaBlanket design.

While I've left out things that I wasn't sure deserved a category and a few probably snuck in that shouldn't have, I make that about fifty. Please feel free to add to, or argue with me in the comments below!
Knowing what things are called means you can make the most of search engines and find more of what you like.

For me the exciting thing is when you start to draw these different disciplines together. This is my version of Lilla Bjorn's Spirit Wrap. Which contains corner to corner, mozaic, overlay and patchwork crochet worked in two different yarns!

And the next person to call crochet, 'KNITTING'...!

fastening off...