Crochet cables and ribbing

Lately, I've been thinking a lot about crochet cables. Back when I was just a newbie I understood that the only way to make cables and ribbing was with post or raised stitches. Now, it occurrs to me that over the years I have worked quite a few cables that don't include a single post stitch. So how about, this month we look at some of the solutions that I've found.

 

Post-stitch ribbing is chunky, heavy and has almost no stretch. I used to think it looked OK until I realised that there were better solutions.

 

Possibly the revelation arrived when I discovered I could make ribbing using Slip-stitches. Fortunately for me this coincided with my ability to make a slip-stitch fabric! Really, I had forgotten how hard it was in the beginning. My first swatch ended up in a tight little knot where, the rows got shorter and tighter. It requires a lighter grip on the yarn and a bigger than normal hook. Probably, for the first time it would have helped to use a stretchy lofty wool yarn rather than unforgiving cotton. I'm afraid that everyone who over comes this pain barrier becomes a slip-stitch evangelist. You will just have to forgive me when I wax lyrical on this subject!

Slip-stitch ribbing is not only light weight and stretchy but it also looks like knitted ribbing. I've even discovered that it is possible to hold shirring elastic thread along side your yarn to create a rib that is truly elastic.

 

Linda Skuja's Mals Clay Sweater*

There is of course another kind of ribbing which has been around, probably, since before post stitches. Worked horizontally to the main fabric in short rows, back loop only (BLO) Double crochet (Sc-US) or Half Treble (Hdc-US) gives the appearance of ribbing, but it has very little stretch. Linda Skuja uses back loop only Htr (Hdc-US) ribbing, seen here, on her Mals Clay Sweater. Despite the lack of stretch it is visually very appealing.

 

When it comes to cables I suppose my first question is; what is a cable? Is it something like an knitted Aran sweater or do we say, hey this is crochet we make our own definition?

 

Tea Cozy design by Saichika from Japanese Wonder crochet*

For me, in the beginning there was only this kind of heavy and unforgiving post-stitch cable which is accompanied by those dull rows of Double crochet (Sc-US). But then I made new discoveries.

 

Charmer Cowl by Lena Fedotova*

Lena Fedotova (aka Ravliki), on her Charmer and Adventurer cowls,

Adventurer Cowl by Lena Fedotova

uses long intertwining rows of Foundation Dc (Sc-US) and BLO Dc. This requires you to carry the working yarn with you on the foundation row of the interlocking cable, as it winds it's way in and out of the last cable. The yarn magically un threads itself on the return row! Interestingly, there is no supporting structure behind the cables. Without the ugly Dc base the cables make a 3 dimensional lace and a soft fabric.

 

ZigZag Hat by Tanja Osswald*

Tanja Osswald should certainly feature here, she has a whole collection of stylish and complex cable fingerless-gloves. I have yet to find an excuse to make one, so instead, here is her Zigzag cable hat. It is made using three different slip-stitches in combination, but she also sneaks in extra chain and short rows. This allows the cables to wiggle their way along the hat.

Cabled Slip Stitch Mittens by Anna Lindmark*

Anna Lindmark (aka Mmatildas Virkstad) uses the same combination of slip-stitches in short rows to create her signature cables. The cables are built one section at a time. They seem to appear magically as you move along the row.

 

All of these ribbing and cable solutions produce cables running horizontally in rows. By turning the fabric 90 degrees we can make them appear to run vertically. Indeed, Anna's gloves are worked from wrist to fingertips. She makes them in one moulded shape rather than separate pattern pieces. I often think that this aspect of crochet is vastly under appreciated. So often we view designs as a knitter or dressmaker would. We are missing out on this ability to mould our fabrics to fit.

 

Lady Mabel Sweater by Susan Walsh

Another example of fooling the eye by turning the fabric at 90o is Susan Walsh's (aka Peppergoose) Lady Mabel Sweater. The sweater is worked from cuff to cuff to enable the cable to run vertically.

The cable is built from short rows of Dc (Sc-US) worked one by one.

 

Now we are getting into muddy waters! So far everything I have shown you is unmistakably a traditional rib or a cable, with the possible exception of the Lady Mable Sweater. Now, I leave it to you to decide what is a crochet cable and if it matters. Possibly, I am the only one of us that feels this compulsion to name and categorise all things crochet!

 

For Them Sweater by Tatsiana Kupryianchyk*

I offer you Tatsiana Kupryianchyk's (aka Lilla Bjorn) 'For Them Sweater'. She uses a combination of BLO Dc (Sc-US) and Slip-stitches in short rows to create the interlocking leaf and wedge shapes.

Ivy Hat and Cowl by Liudmyla Hefny*

Having bought far too much yarn, I had enough left over to pair Tatsiana's sweater with the Ivy hat and Cowl by Liudmyla Hefny. Her leaf shapes are perhaps the linking step between Tatsiana's interlocking shapes and traditional cables. Liudmyla's leaves are not only linked but seem to grow organically out of each other. The ribbing and cable are made with those extra tall Yarn-Over Slip-Stitches, with a few taller stitches thrown in to give spacing between the rows, and of course, short rows.

 

Block23 Kiss and Hug by Sue Perez*

You may be aware that my current cable obsession has sprung from Sue Perez' (aka Mrs Micawber) Live Loop Crochet cables. I wrote about it myself, here. Having now made each of the 25 cable block designs, I have moved onto finding out how they might work in practise.

Woolly Bowl by Sue Perez*

Unlike the other cables I have shown here, these cables can be worked in any direction and can be of various widths. The cables are created as the base fabric is made. Although the single loop cables, above, appear to be made after the bowl, they were both made simultaneously.

 

Bonus Points Shawl by Sue Perez*

My current work in progress is Sue's shawl design which moves away from the straight forward Dc base stitches. It offers new exciting possibilities!

 

I have thrown up a few questions for you and possibly you have thoughts about other cables I have not yet tried?

 

fastening off... 

 

 

 *All items shown here have me made by me, any errors are mine not the designers!

Discovering Continental Looping

 This is not the first time that I have found myself the victim of my own conceit! Scroll back a few months and I was congratulating myself for a most comprehensive post on Broomstick Lace. Thanks to reader Tanya I have now discovered Continental Looping.

In truth, I have only found one reference to Continental Looping. Possibly it is now known by a different name or has fallen out of fashion altogether. It appears to be a cross over between crochet and netting. When I say netting I am not really talking about fishing nets but more akin to something very delicate your great grandmother might have made. (This quick video will give you an idea about that kind of netting.)

Both techniques use a flat gauge. My searches have shown these gauges are hard to find, so you might be forced to make your own, or customise one. For the purpose of experimentation a thin ruler might suffice. As it doesn't actually use a broomstick perhaps it's exclusion from the earlier post is forgivable!

The instructions I have, can be found in The 1982 Batsford publication; The Techniques of Crocheted & Openwork Lace, by Ena Maidens. The information is limited and confusing, to say the least. I am having to be creative with my interpretation! There appear to be at least two ways to make the loops used in this type of work.

 

Method One

This method uses double loop stitches.

Chain any number of stitches. 

Forward row:

Enlarge the last loop on the hook and slide it onto the  gauge. Do not remove the hook from this loop.

Bring the hook and the length of chain to the top edge of the gauge. The length of chain hangs down the front, the working yarn to the back and the hook is held parallel to the top of the gauge.

With the hook still in the enlarged loop, place the hook down through the first chain. I'm working into the back bump but you should do whatever feels right to you.

With the working yarn to the back of the gauge, bring the yarn down the back and up the front. Allow the yarn to wrap over the hook before taking it down the back and bringing it up the front again. 

The next bit is tricky but after much frustration you will quickly find the knack!!!

Take that second wrap on the hook and pull it under the first wrap. Try using your left hand thumb to pull that first loop over the hook.

Now give the hook a gentle tug and bring the hook through the chain stitch as well. You have two loops remaining on the hook.

Yarn over the hook and bring through the remaining two loops.

* Now with the loop on the hook place the hook down through the next chain. Wrap the yarn as before and pull the 2nd wrap through the 1st and the chain. YO and pull through the remaining two stitches.

Repeat from* to the end of the row.

 

Return row:

Remove the loops from the gauge and make a short length of chain to be the same height as the gauge.

Make a Slip-stitch into each pair of loops to the end of the row. Work the last loop on it's own.

At the end of the row enlarge the loop on the hook and repeat the forward and return rows.

On the forward row, work into the slip-stitches instead of the foundation chain.

  

Method Two 

This method creates more complex designs using groups of loop stitches. The chain stitches are not made first, but rather at the same time the loops are made. It uses single Loop stitches.

There are different elements which we can use together to form more complex patterns. 

For instance:

Row1

Chain2, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge. This time the chain stitches and working yarn run along the base of the gauge.

(Put the hook into the first chain pull up a loop and Chain2, enlarge the new loop and slide onto the gauge)

repeat to the desired length.

Row2

For the next row either:

• Fasten off at the end of the previous row and begin the new one with a slip knot on the hook,    

•  Chain to the height of the gauge as we did in Method One, Or     

• Bring the working yarn up to the top of the first loop, put the hook into this loop, pull through the yarn and Chain1,
  
  then Dc into the same loop. Now remove the first row from the gauge. Pull up a new loop and place on the gauge. 

For the next loop; (place the hook down behind the front loop of the dc, pull through the yarn and Chain1, Dc in the next loop, pull up the loop on the hook and place on the gauge)

repeat to the desired length.

We can gather together the loops as we might with Broomstick Lace.

 

And we can make lengths of chain between each loop or each group of loops.

 

We can put more than one loop into each preceding loop or chain stitch.

For instance:

Begin as before with Chain2, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge.

(Put the hook into the first chain, pull through the yarn and Chain1, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge) repeat until there are 4 loops on the gauge.

*Put the hook back into the same base chain, pull through the yarn again and Chain8. Enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge.

(Put the hook into the 7th chain this time, pull through the yarn and Chain1, enlarge the loop on the hook and slide onto the gauge) repeat until there are 4 loops on the gauge.

Repeat from* to make groups of four loops until reaching the desired length.

 There are a few stitch designs in the publication but I'm afraid they have defeated me on this occasion! If you want to try them for yourself you will have to look for a copy of; 'The Techniques of Crocheted & Openwork Lace' by Ena Maidens, published by Batsford 1982. ISBN 0713425687. If you are able to work any of them out I would be grateful if you would explain it to me!

 

Fastening off...