Investigating inverse Yarn-Over Slip-Stitch

     

I have come to believe that Crocheters are, by and large, all rebels. We are always pushing at the limits of what our craft will allow. It is also true to say that some of us are more adept than others! 

Last month as I was playing with slip-stitch lace, I found myself messing about with Yarn-over Slip stitches. This post is a record of my thoughts and experiments. It is not slick and well thought out, but instead offered as a work in progress!

 

Let's start with the obvious and instead of that mouthful, 'Yarn-Over Slip-stitch', let's just call it YO. Which makes, Front-loop-only Yarn-over Slip-stitch, simply YOF.

 

To create the stitch; Yarn Over the hook before placing the hook into the Front-Loop-Only, catch the working yarn and pull through the stitch and the two loops on the hook.

This makes such an interesting and unexpected fabric. Compared to the standard Front-loop-only Slip-stitch it is soft and thick.

 

We can do the same thing using the Back-Loop-Only, YOB.

If we compare it with the standard Back-Loop-Only rib stitch you can see that the fabric is perhaps a little thinner but the ribs are more defined.

A standard Inverse slip-stitch is worked in reverse. The yarn is brought to the front of the work and the hook is placed into the stitch from back to front. Then with the yarn under the hook, grab the yarn and pull through the stitch and loop on hook. I found it impossible to do the same thing with a Yarn Over stitch.

I said to friend Anna (Mmatildas Virkstad) "Inverse Yarn-Over Slip-stitch is not possible."

"The yarn-over slip-stitch? Yes you can do it in reverse!" she asserted and then she explained how!

This most definitely needs investigating.

 

To work an inverse Yarn Over stitch (iYO):

1. Bring the yarn to the front of the work
2. Bring the yarn over the hook from front to back, and then back under the hook, so that it is once again at the front of the work
3. Place the hook through the front (or back) loop only from back to front 
4. Catch the yarn under the hook and pull it back through the front (or back) loop
5. Allow the hook to rotate anti-clockwise and then continue to pull through the two loops on the hook.

It takes a little practise because it is a new and strange thing to do!

This is what iYOF looks like. You can compare it with the other stitches. You can see that it looks a little bit like YOB.

 

This is what iYOB looks like. I have found this sample quite hard to make even and regular. It looks a little like YOF.

 

So why do we need to make inverse stitches? 

If you want to work in the round, the back and front face of the fabric will look different.

This sample is YOB made in the round. You can see that it looks nothing like the rib pattern achieved by working in rows.

So to achieve the same effect, when working in the round, alternate between rows of YOF/iYOB or YOB/iYOF.

In this sample I am showing you YOB/iYOF worked in the round. The turquoise is YOB and the orange iYOF.

 

In attempting to create the iYO stitch I accidentally produced a Yarn Over Twisted stitch. In my previous investigations here, I found the twisted stitches to be really horrible and impractical inventions, best avoided! But this version is really interesting and easier to create.  To make the YOTwisted stitch:

1. Use a larger hook size than usual
   
2. Yarn over the hook from back to front in the usual way
3. Place the hook through the stitch from back to front
4. Bring the working yarn forward over the hook
5. Catch the yarn and pull it back through the stitch and the two loops on the hook.

It is this combination of the hook being placed backwards into the stitch and the yarn over coming from the back of the work which produces the twisting effect.

 

This is what YOB Twisted stitch looks like. It creates this deeply ribbed fabric which reminds me of a concertina. I really can't show you in a photograph how remarkable it is. I encourage you to make a swatch yourself!

 

This is what YOF Twisted stitch looks like. The fabric is very flat and features that unusual slanted effect.

 

Now it is your turn. I leave it to better minds than mine to do something interesting with these stitches! 

 

fastening off...

Edit: Apologies for the incorrect link which is now corrected!RP

Discovering Slip-Stitch Lace

    Is it possible to make lace using only slip-stitches? 

 

It's not a silly question! When making traditional crochet lace we do so using a combination of tall stitches, crossed stitches, clusters and chain. Most of these things are not possible with slip-stitches alone. Whether you go with Back Loop Only or Front Loop Only or inverse stitches, all traditional Slip-stitches are very short in height. (I talked about all these stitches here.)

How shall I begin?

I assume that we could learn something from knitted lace but, having forgotten the little I ever knew about knitting, I must set out to find the solution on my own. 

I think I should start by choosing a flat, fairly open but simple stitch. So I am choosing to work in the front loop only pattern, known as garter stitch.

 

Using only these shallow stitches how shall I make lace? It seems sensible to use chain to create holes in the fabric. My first experiment is made of alternating rows and Chain2 loops.

    Row1. Slst into back bump of foundation chain across. Turn.

    Row2. (3Flo, Chain2, Skip2) repeat across row ending 3Flo. Turn.

    Row3. (3Flo, Slipst under 2loops of chain x2) repeat across row ending 3Flo. Turn.

    Rows2&3 are repeated.

While the swatch looks quite different to the original It doesn't look much like lace!

 

The obvious solution seems to be to make bigger holes. I also chose to stagger the holes, instead of placing them one on top of the other as in the last swatch. Here is what I did.

    Row1. Slst into back bump of foundation chain across. Turn.

    Row2. 4Flo, (Chain3, Skip 3 sts, 3Flo) repeat across row ending 4Flo instead of 3Flo. Turn.

    Row3. 1Flo, (Chain3, Skip3, Slipst under 2loops of chain x3) repeat across row ending 1Flo. Turn.

    Row4. 1Flo, (Slipst under 2loops of chain x3, Chain3, Skip3) repeat across row ending 1Flo. Turn.

    Rows3&4 are repeated.

I think this fabric is very successful except the beginning and end of the rows, probably Rows2&4 should begin and end with a taller stitch. 

I remade the sample with a Flo Half Treble (Hdc-US) or Chain2 at the ends of Rows2&4 replacing the first Flo.

 

Simplifying that stitch into simple chain loops, I've ended up with this.

    Into foundation chain:

    Row1. 3Flo (Chain3, Skip3, 1Flo) repeat across row ending 3Flo. Turn.

    Row2. (1Flo, Chain3, Skip3) repeat across ending 1Flo. Turn.

    Rows1&2 are repeated.

Once again, I think Row2 should begin with a taller stitch, so, I had to check that out and began and ended Row2 with a Flo Half Treble or Chain2.

 

There is one more slip-stitch that I discovered recently, that is the 'Yarn Over Slip-stitch'. Quite literally you yarn over the hook before placing the hook into the stitch, catch the yarn and pull through all the loops on the hook. This has a little extra height.

    Row1. Slst into back bump of foundation chain across. Turn.

    Row2&3. (1Flo Yoslst, Chain3, Skip3) repeat across ending 1Flo YoSlst.

    Row4. Slipst under 2loops of each chain across.

    Row5. Flo of each stitch across.

    Repeat Rows2to5.

Now that is more interesting!

Can I use spike stitches to open up the fabric?

After some unsuccessful experiments I offer this. 

    Row1. Working into the back bump of foundation chain; 

    (3Slst, Chain5, Skip5) repeat across ending 3Slst. Turn.

    Row2. (3Flo, Chain2, Slst by placing the hook under the centre of chain5-loop, Chain2) repeat across. Turn.

    Row3. (3Flo, Chain5, Skip5) repeat across. Turn.

    Repeat Rows2&3 ending on Row2.

  

There are some more open-work stitch combinations which we might consider 'lacy', like this one which is Back loop only, Inverse Back Loop only repeated over an even number of stitches.

I thought I would work that between rows of Front loop only in order to contrast the more open rows with the solid ones.

I worked over an even number of stitches;

    Row1&2. Flo across the row. Turn.

    Row3&4. (Blo, InverseBlo) repeated across the row. 

    repeat Rows1to4.

The result also has two sides which both give a different effect. 

 

Perhaps it would work better with a larger hook and an additional row of Blo,iBlo. This swatch has 3 rows of Flo and 3 rows of (Blo, iBlo).

 

I'm very happy with that, whether you consider it to be lace or not is a matter of debate!

 

After talking over the problem with Anna MmatildasVirstad, it occurred to me that it might be possible to Yarn Over the hook more than once. 

This swatch shows 4 rows of Flo Slst made into a chain foundation row;

4 rows of Flo YarnOver Slst;

4 rows of Flo Double YarnOver Slst;

4 rows of Flo Treble YarnOver Slst.

 

I remade the very first deep blue swatch, replacing all the Slst with Double Yarn Over Slst, the spaces are chain2. I wrapped the yarn twice around the hook before making the Slip-stitch as usual. The fabric is quite thick but also soft.

 

Anna then reminded me that with a big enough hook and the right kind of 'yarn' any slip-stitch pattern becomes lace. Consider something stiff like paper or raffia. Alternatively, perhaps cotton, linen, jute or hemp and some heavy starch. Below I have used a cotton/jute mix yarn and worked Back-loop only in the round.

To see Slip-stitch crochet as you/I have never imagined it before, I tried working with a 28gauge copper beading wire and worked Front-loop only in the round.

Thank you for your help and inspiration Anna!

 

So, what do you think? I remain convinced that there are other solutions. What did I miss? What else could I try? I eagerly await some clues to unlock this mystery!

fastening off...

    

Discovering Broomstick Lace

     Broomstick Crochet is almost the odd-man-out in the crochet world. It's enigmatic and elusive, leaving me with more questions than answers. It seems to go by an unbelievable number of names; Witchcraft crochet, Jiffy lace, Peacock's Eye, Bird's Eye, Peruvian stitch. It was made by American settlers, or taken to America by the pilgrim fathers, or was used in traditional Croatian lace. It is from the 1600's, or 1800's!

    If we try to put it in a category it must belong with Hairpin Lace and Solomon's Knot, or even Tunisian crochet. It uses elongated loops of yarn. This makes it a great way to use some of the more troublesome yarns that have been devised, like Mohair, tape and fashion yarns. It has another thing in common with Tunisian crochet in that it is made in two passes both from the right side only. Just like it's cousins it is most often presented in it's simplest form only. I have a sneaky suspicion that there may be more to Broomstick lace than first meets the eye. Let's see what we can discover about Broomstick lace!

    Let's start by assembling our tools. Unless you want to go super chunky you won't be needing a broom stick. That's a relief! A stick or pin with a pointy end, a knitting needle is perfect. It doesn't need to be round, so you could use a ruler, but it does need to be a little longer than the fabric you are making. It is possible to work in the round so we could use a knitting needle with a flexible cable, or multiple needles as is done when knitting in the round. For a non-knitter I have found that having both a stick and a hook to manipulate is troublesome! It helps if you can wedge the stick under your arm or between your legs. It also helps if your stick is wooden as it's less slippy, and therefore more controllable.

    Before we go any further I have to tell you that there are two methods for creating the loops. !!This is really important!! I cannot tell you how many hours I have spent wondering why, the one set of patterns I had, did not look like all the other ones. So, we have the No-Turn standard method, and the Turn Margaret Wilkes method.

    The most simple version of Broomstick lace begins with a row of chain or Double crochet (Sc-US). In each of these stitches we pull up a loop, slipping each one onto a stick as it is made. A the end of the row, we make a Dc (Sc) into each loop.  I was so surprised by this simple fabric. Let me show it to you and use it to illustrate the difference between the Turn and No-Turn methods.

 

No-Turn Standard Method.

   [These instructions assume that you are right-handed. For the left-handed please reverse the instructions. They are also written in UK terminology. (US in brackets)]

First a row of chain stitches. It can be any length. Then a Dc (Sc) in each of these stitches.

Row1: Now take up the stick in the left hand. We are working from left to right for this row.

With the working yarn behind the hook, extend the loop which is already on the hook and slip it onto the end of the stick.

Place the hook into the next stitch, under both loops, catch the yarn and pull up a loop, slip it onto the hook; continue to pull up a loop in each stitch and place each onto the stick.

However you pull up these loops ensure that each one is pulled up and placed on the stick in the same way, so that all the loops turn in the same direction. 

At the end of the row Do Not turn!

Row2: Now we make a return pass, working from right to left.

For the end stitch we must work a locking stitch.

Slide the first loop off the stick and onto the hook. Grab the working yarn with the hook and pull through the loop,

yarn over the hook and pull through the loop on hook, creating a Chain, this is the locking stitch. We only need to make one locking stitch at the end of the row.

Place the hook back into the extended loop and work a Dc (Sc).

One by one, slide each loop from the stick and work a Dc into each. 

Repeat rows1 and 2 to the desired length.

 

What we have is a light weight soft fabric. On the reverse side we see a bulky row of Dc. This basic variant reminds me of Tunisian crochet. 

Turn Margaret Wilkes Method

First a row of chain stitches. It can be any length. Then a Dc (Sc) in each of these stitches.

Row1: Place the stick between your legs, or balance upright in your lap. With the foundation on the left side of the stick extend the loop which is already on the hook and slip it onto the end of the stick. We are working from right to left.

Place the hook into the next stitch, under both loops, catch the yarn and pull up a loop, slip it onto the hook; continue to pull up a loop in each stitch and place each onto the stick. However you pull up these loops ensure that each one is pulled up and placed on the stick in the same way, so that all the loops turn in the same direction.

Turn the fabric to the right hand side of the stick. 

 

Row2: Now we make a return pass, but we are still working from right to left.

For the end stitch we must work a locking stitch.

Slide the first loop off the stick and onto the hook. Grab the working yarn with the hook and pull through the loop,

yarn over the hook and pull through the loop on hook, creating a Chain, this is the locking stitch. We only need to make one locking stitch at the end of the row.

Place the hook back into the extended loop and work a Dc (Sc).

One by one, slid each loop from the stick and work a Dc into each.

 Repeat rows1 and 2 to the desired length.

 

We still have a light weight soft fabric. But on the Front face, the Dc appears as a row of chain and the bulk has gone. The reverse side is smooth.

It is possible to make a single row of front-loops appear at the base of the long-loops. This was achieved by working the No-Turn method and putting the hook under the back loop only before pulling up a long-loop. 

Or by working the Turn method and pulling the long-loops up from under the back-loop only.

Yet another version is achieved by working slip-stitches in place of the Dc. This time on the No-Turn method the Long-loops are pulled up under the back loop only...

Or the Turn method and pulling the long-loops up from under the back-loop only!

 

To save me time (and from going completely mad), from now on I am going to use the Turn Method for all my samples, because I personally prefer it. I am pulling the loops up from under both loops of the preceding row. Now you know what the possibilities are, you get to make your own choices!

The loops can be grouped together to create the stitch which you are probably more familiar with.

Any number of stitches can be grouped together. Here I have put the hook through four loops at the same time, made the locking stitch in the first cluster

followed by 4Dc (Sc) into the gathered loops.

Here I have grouped together 5 loops and used a larger pin. 

What size stick/pin should you use? In these samples I am using a 4ply yarn with a 3.5mm hook. The smaller sample was made on a 10mm knitting needle and the larger a 15mm needle. So depending on the number of loops you are gathering, the weight of yarn, and the effect you are looking for, you may wish to go as large as a 25mm (size 50 US) Knitting needle.

Any size of stitch can be used to group the loops. Here I have used 4Tr (Dc).

Another way to add in larger stitches, might be to add a row of Tr (Dc) between rows of Broomstick. 

Here I have worked a row of Dc (Sc); a 'Turn' row of Broomstick with a Dc return pass; in a contrast yarn and on the wrong side, a row of Tr (Dc) made into front-loop only. These 4 rows are repeated.

The number of stitches we make in the second row/return pass has to be equal to the number of loops we are using. But we can play around with their placement.

In this swatch I have grouped 5 loops with just a single Dc (Sc) and 4 chain in between the clusters. There needs to be a single loop at either end of the stitch pattern. The stitch pattern works best with an odd number of loops.

We need to add an extra row of Dc, in which we place 4 Dc into the 4 chain; and then to get back onto the right side we have to make another row of Dc before pulling up the Broomstick loops once again.

So far all of our Broomstick sit in neat columns one on top of the other. It is possible to stagger the rows. On the base row, the clusters have 6 loops with 6Dc in each cluster. But the next row, the end clusters have only 3 loops with 3 Dc in the clusters, those in between have 6 loops and 6Dc. These two cluster rows are repeated.

 

You will want to know how to increase and decrease if you want to make anything except a very basic design. There are different ways to do this but these are my preferred methods.

Let's start with decreasing because it's the most obvious. We are able to decrease by altering the number of Dc (Sc) we make into each cluster of loops on the return pass.

In this image my clusters have 4 loops each. From the second cluster row only 2Dc are made into the end clusters. This decreases the following row by one whole cluster.

To increase we pull up additional loops by working under both back and front loops at the end of the rows.

In this image my clusters have 4 loops. From the second cluster row 2 additional loops are pulled up in each of the end clusters. This increases the following row by one whole cluster.

This increase technique can also be used to turn a corner.

I started with a base row of 16 stitches. I've pulled up one loop only in each of the outer 6 stitches, but in the central 4 stitches I pulled up two loops, by working under both front and back loop. This means that I've finished with 5 clusters each with 4 loops, so that it is finished with 20 Dc.

Wouldn't it be nice if we could use Broomstick clusters without the stick and just like any normal stitch? Can we make them just like we did with Solomon's Knot stitches last month? Well of course we can! We need to make the stitches just a little differently, but when you consider it, Broomstick clusters are just complex Solomon's Knots. 

Because we are working individual clusters, one at a time, we don't need a stick. Working from right to left, as you would with standard crochet, pull up the loop on the hook to your chosen height and one loop in each of the next three stitches. With the hook through all 4 loops, grabbing the working yarn from the left and make one locking chain stitch. Now you can finish with 4 Dc.

For the next clusters in the row; keep the loop on the hook and pull up an extended loop in each of the next 4 loops. There is no need to make the locking chain, simply make 4 Dc. 

In my first sample, after I made the cluster row, I have made an additional row of Dc on the wrong side, so that the next row of Broomstick clusters all face the right side.

In my second example I have tried combing the clusters with a Treble (Dc), by placing a Treble between each cluster. Because I have begun with a tall stitch there is no need to make the locking stitch. I made a second row of Dc again, but this time into the front loop only.

I am not honestly happy with either of these experiments. This fabric has a definite right side only. Unless you are working in continuous rounds there must always be a wrong side row. That wrong side row seems to take the joy out of the stitch. 

This third sample uses a second colour to give more definition to the Broomstick row. I have worked a cross treble between the clusters for the same reason. In truth, I think this way of working is most successful when used as an edging stitch only.

 

I mentioned earlier that we can work Broomstick in the round by either using multiple sticks or a knitting needle with a cable. But why not use this individual cluster method?

I've made myself a base of Treble stitches (Dc). There are 12 stitches in the first round; 24 Treble in the second; 36 Treble in the third.

I've pulled up 3 loops in the back loop only and finished them with 5 Dc in each to accommodate the increasing dimensions of the circle.

 

And finally at the beginning I promised that you could use the most awkward yarns with this stitch, so I better check that it's true. I have used tape yarn in the past.

This particular yarn is from Wool and the Gang and is wider than anything I have used before. The recommended needle size is 8mm. I am using a 6mm crochet hook. As the biggest knitting needle I have is 15mm (size 19-US) I am holding two 15mm sticks together.

This is a fine Mohair yarn. I've only ever used it held together with another yarn. The recommended hook size is 3.5mm but I used 4mm and the 15mm knitting needle. It's not easy to work with!

 

Thank you for sticking with me to the end of this epic post! I hope I have found something that you would like to experiment with. Maybe you can find a way to successfully work with that individual cluster method.

 

Fastening off...