Crochet Tips: Cords, Drawstrings, Handles and Buttonholes.

Every now and again you're going to want to crochet some sort of cord. I know nothing about this subject so I thought I'd go on a voyage of discovery. This is what I've found out so far!

 Up to now I've only ever used chain stitches or french knitting. I learnt french knitting as a child, when wooden cotton reels were still an everyday item. Now I use the fancy Prym french knitting mill. It definitely speeds up the process, but it does have it's limitations. The mill prefers a smooth 4 ply yarn. What it produces is basically a hollow stretchy tube. 

None of the modern books on my shelf mention any kind of crochet cord. Instead I've had to go time travelling back to the 70's and 80's. Let's start with the most simple forms. I'm saving the best till last!

This sweetie is just a length of chain stitches with slip stitches made into the 'back bump'.

This one has slip stitches made into the top loop only. The finish is a little looser.

Here I've simply woven a number of threads through the chain stitches. You could also use ribbon or even a length of metal chain.

In this example I've actually made the chain stitches around the extra threads. You have to pass the threads between the hook and the working yarn. It took a few attempts to get it right. I definitely prefer this to the woven version.

 Next, for your consideration I've got Irish Crochet cord. I'm not sure if you can really call it cord, but it would certainly be good for button loops. All it is is a number of threads of yarn which you Double crochet (Sc) around twice. Like this:

Have you heard of a Lucet? I think they're also called knitting forks. Having dipped into this on the Internet I've discovered that this is an art form all on it's own. If you'd like to find out more you could start by visiting the video made by It's all in a Nutshell here.

If you'd like to try it out before having to rush out and spend money have a go at this.

Tape together two crochet hooks of the same size. Luckily I just happen to have two! Start with a slip knot on the left hook and the yarn end hanging down in front.

Wrap the yarn around the hooks as I've done. Some instructions tell you to turn the 'Lucet' but it doesn't matter as long as you always work in the same order.

Use another crochet hook to pick up the left hand loop and lift it over the yarn wrap into the centre.

Now pick up the right hand loop, lift it over the yarn wrap and into the centre. Keep repeating these three actions, wrap the yarn, lift the left hand loop into the centre, lift the right hand loop into the centre. 

Here are a couple I made earlier! (Don't forget to wash the sticky tape off your hooks before you use them next time!!)

 Now we get to the really fun bit. This is where I'm feeling a bit smug. I found a few versions of the instructions for Basic Crochet Cord or Caterpillar Braid. It took me a few attempts to work out what to do but I love the result.

Start with a larger hook than usual and I'd also suggest a non splitty yarn, try to keep things loose, at least to start with.

 Chain 2,

Double Crochet (Sc) into the 2nd chain from the hook,

Turn the work and look for the two vertical bars on the left,

Double crochet (Sc) into those two bars,

*Turn the work and Double Crochet (Sc) into the two bars on the left.

Repeat from * to the required length.

Once you've got the hang of the basic cord you can try these variations. This one I'm calling 'Topsy Turvy Braid'. It looks different on the front and back.

To make this one follow the instruction above turning it twice to the right to establish the braid. Then turn it alternately to the left and then the right. When you turn it to the left insert you hook underneath the working yarn, not over the top of it. You'll see what I mean when you get there!

This one is much easier! I'm calling it 'Half Treble (Hdc) Caterpillar braid'. Instead of making Double Crochets into those parallel stitches try Half Trebles.

Or try using Trebles (Dc), like this example.

Why not go wild and make a three Treble (Dc) cluster into those parallel bars! Well really you could get carried away, but I thought that I'd better stop there.

What ever you do, have fun!

Crochet Tips: The Humble Dc Part 2

If you thought that we'd tortured the poor Double Crochet enough already, well that's nothing compared to what it will suffer this week! It could be argued that these offerings are not Double Crochet at all. That's why I decided to blog about them separately. (Just a reminder that we are talking about Single Crochet in USA terminology.)

Let's start with Extended Dc because it makes a good comparison with the others. The best way I can describe this is that it is a Dc standing on the shoulders of a chain st. The image above is from the front, worked from the front only.

The stitch is begun as for a normal Dc, when there are two loops on the hook the next Yarn Over is pulled through the first loop only creating the 'chain'. Now Yarn Over again and pull through both loops to form the Dc. 

What it does is to create a stitch about the same height as a Half Treble (Hdc) but without the bulk.

This is the same stitch on reverse.

Now compare this with Knotted Stitch. (This is where you might like to argue with me and say this is a Half Treble!) I would describe this as a Dc standing on the shoulders of a Slip stitch. 

Start by Yarn Over the hook, before you put the hook in the next st. Pull up a loop and pull it through the 'Yarn Over' only. That's the slip st. Now finish the stitch as if it were a Dc, that is Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. Oh this stitch is made from the front only.

If you work the same stitch 'to and fro' then suddenly it is called Counterpane Stitch. (I'm wondering if that translates into American, my dictionary tells me it was traditionally a quilted bed covering. Americans might say Afghan.)

If you've already got a hook out and you're trying out these stitches then you're as weird as I am! It's these teeny tiny differences between stitches that fascinate me. If on the other hand your head is swimming well I can only apologise. For those of you who are even more pedantic than me, I did think that I should have included Crab stitch and Loop stitch too!

(Please can someone tell me if Americans have counterpanes even if you're reading this in a year's time. You're still only be the third person to visit!)

Crochet Tips: The Humble Dc. Part1

 There was me thinking that Double crochet was the most boring stitch there was. But I've been doing a bit of research and I think I might surprise you. So much so that this is going to be a double post.
(When I say Double Crochet, I do of course mean Single Crochet (USA). This being bilingual crochet thing gets quite frustrating at times. I learnt to crochet with the UK terms and those are the ones that make the most sense to me, but I notice that my local college has decided to teach new students the American terms. So much for Brexit and being all independent!)
Language is certainly confusing, I'd really love to learn the true history of the craft. I've read that it is relatively new, despite clear evidence that historically, crochet has been used all over the world! The names that I'm using in this post all come from the nineteenth century book by Therese De Dillmont, Encyclopedia of needlework.

I had no idea that bog standard Dc was actually called Russian stitch! Russian stitch is when the stitches are all made in the same direction. That is to say only working on the front and either fastening off at the end of each row or working in the round without turning.

If you turn at the end of the row and work back on the wrong side, that is to say you work to and fro, then this is called Rose Stitch.

In fact Ms De Dillmont doesn't have anything she calls either Double Crochet or Single Crochet. She calls Slip stitch 'Single or small close stitch'. The stitch above which I would call Back Loop Double Crochet, she calls Plain or Close Stitch.

You're going to have to look closely at this one to see any difference. This is Slanting Stitch. (I think this is a good point to apologise for the rubbish cotton yarn I used. I fancied a change from beige!) This stitch is also made into the back loop and worked in one direction only. The teeny tiny bit of difference is made by the fact that there is no initial 'Yarn Over'. You put the hook under the back loop of the stitch below, but you don't yarn over. You put the Hook Over the yarn instead and pull it through. Then you Yarn Over and pull through both loops as normal. 

The Ribbed stitch here is back loop Dc worked to and fro.

Double Stitch is basically Dc2tog. Double crochet together the first two stitches, then *double crochet together the last st again and the next stitch. (repeat from*) This is worked on the front only, and unless you are working in the round you need to add a stitch at the beginning of each row so that you don't run out of stitches!

This is Russian Crossed Stitch. You might know it as Knit stitch or Waistcoat Stitch. Jess from the Make & Do Crew has a blog post, video and some patterns using this stitch. As you can see it creates a diagonal line and Jess recommends working it in the round with a larger size hook than usual. This is another stitch which is made from the front in one direction only. The pattern is created by putting the hook between the two vertical threads instead of under the loop.

 This is my attempt to work the stitch to and fro. I think it still needs a bit more experimentation! You'll also notice that I used a different yarn which wasn't liable to split!

 This is Pique stitch, once again worked from the front only and with a larger size hook. The instruction is to "put the hook in under one of the vertical threads" and make a Dc as usual. The image below is the back of the stitch.

I'm not a big fan of this pattern, it was hard to work. Have a go and see what you think, you might be able to turn it into something!

In my next post I'll add three more examples of ways we can distort the humble double crochet!

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Book Review: Custom Crocheted Sweaters

It was my birthday this week, which means cake and crochet presents! After dropping some HUGE hints I got Dora Ohrensteins first book of sweaters. (Thanks Nick!)

Have you noticed how many patterns there are for cowls, scarves and shawls? I think it's because we're all a little afraid of taking on a garment. That's why I'm such a big fan of Top Down Sweaters. It's so easy to adjust the size as you go. My first attempt at a sweater was made without a pattern. Because I started from the bottom and worked upwards the sleeves are just a tad too long!

I never intended that this blog should be about what "Rachie did next"! It is meant to contain all the stuff that I've looked for at one time or another and not found. I get so frustrated when deciding whether to buy a book or not. I bet you've got a few disappointing purchases on your shelves that you've never used. So here's what's actually in "Custom Crocheted Sweaters" and why you should rush out and buy it!

This book is not only like a Master Class in crocheting garments, but includes masterclasses. It's a great bedtime read if like me you're so addicted to crochet you just have to take the stuff to bed with you! To start with, Dora explains the 4 most common ways to make sweaters and how to make sure that the garment you make will not only fit you but will also be flattering.

Next she gives you a set of patterns which explore each of these styles. Out of the ten patterns there is only really one that I wouldn't want to make for myself. There are a couple of other ones that I would want to alter, mainly make longer, (Let's face it I'm not 21 anymore!) or change the sleeve length. I don't see this as being a problem because that's exactly what this book is about.

There are a huge 17 lessons teaching you how to alter  everything from the neckline down. These lessons are spread throughout the book so you don't have to feel overwhelmed.

The patterns include cardies and jackets as well as sweaters. Rather than my try and describe them use this link to pop over to Ravelry to have a look at them. The patterns start with the most basic dropped shoulder method and move through tailoring, raglan and top down construction. Right now I'm interested in raglan construction so I'm going to be starting somewhere near the back of the book. Even if you never make one of the patterns, this book will be a boon to all your garment making.

 

Crochet Tips: Linked Stitches Part 2

In this second post on Linked stitches I will be showing you how to join linked stitches in the round. I have two methods to offer up. The first is by using whip stitches to imitate the horizontal bars. The second is by working over the initial chain stitches as you create a final stitch.

I've just finished the Janelle cardigan from Dora Ohrenstein's "Top-Down Crochet Sweaters". So this is a good excuse to show it off. (Sorry about the model!)
Whip Stitch Join
The first join I have for you is worked after the crocheting is finished. I've worked my example in two colours so you can more clearly see what is happening. (These are Trebletreble Linked stitches.[Uk])
Join the end of each row with Slip stitches as normal. You'll see how this leaves a gap in the Linked Stitches.

Using a tapestry needle, join the yarn on the wrong side and bring the needle through just above the first horizontal bar on the right.

Take the yarn across the join and back down under the horizontal bar on the left.

Bring the yarn behind the join and back up just above the next horizontal bar.

Repeat for each pair of horizontal bars.

Work the yarn through stitches on the reverse until the next row of linked stitches.

Join As you Go

After finishing the last stitch, pull up a loop in each horizontal bar as usual.

Pull up a loop in slip st join at base, as indicated.

Put hook down under 1st bar to the left of the starting chains, as indicated.

Yarn over hook and pull the loop thru to the front and thru the 1st two loops on the hook.

Put the hook down under the 2nd bar, Yarn over the hook and pull up thru the next two loops on hook.

Repeat this process for the last bar.

Finally put the hook thru at the top of the stitch, Yarn over the hook and pull up thru the final loops on hook.

I used this join for the sleeves on the Janelle Cardigan. The whip stitch join would probably be better for a join which is more visible.

 

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