Britta's Juletrae Dreamcatcher

Ok, I'm going to need you all to keep quiet about this blog post until after Christmas. My mad dear friend Britta put in an order for some mini Christmas Tree dreamcatcher decorations for her gift this year. The only direction I got was that they should be, "shiny whitey silvery"! To be honest I've been putting off the whole idea since last year, but at last I've knuckled down and got on with the job. 
It seems like a waste of a pattern if I don't share it with you. You've just got time to make some yourself or use the idea to convert a favourite design to fit in a ring.

Let's start with the general idea. What ring can you use? Well anything you can find really! Try searching for craft rings or dream catcher hoops made of wood, metal or plastic. Also consider jewelry, macrame and florist supplies as well as lamp shade making and embroidery rings. It all depends on what size you need. In this design the wooden and embroidery hoops don't work very well as they are too deep.

 

The craft rings that I am using have a rather unattractive soldering mark. So If your ring isn't very attractive it can be wrapped in ribbon, cloth or try double crocheting (Sc-USA) around it. Alternatively hand them over to your handy hubby and get him to clean up the rings using emery cloth!

How do you attach your design to the ring? If you double crochet around the ring you can catch the high points of your motif at regular distances with slip stitches. Or use chain stitches to catch the motif at different heights. I've given you instructions for both.

Britta's Dreamcatchers are worked in Rico Essentials 'Crochet Glitz', which is a number 10 crochet thread. I am trying to give up plastic so I really shouldn't be using this yarn as it includes 6% polyester. You could replace this with a 100% cotton thread instead. For this size I'm using a 10cm craft ring.

Just in case you don't want to use thread I thought I better try it out in other weights.

Scheepjes 'Cotton 8', which is a fingering weight 100% cotton yarn, works well in a 12.5cm ring.

Sceepjes 'Twinkle' is a DK weight mixed fibre yarn and fits a 15cm hoop.

Let's talk about the pattern. I'm dyslexic so I try to write my patterns with that in mind, so you will find a full diagram in 3 colours and photos for each round. I'd say it's an intermediate pattern but hopefully I've given you enough information to help you over any difficulties you might have.
Here's the link you're looking for, The PDF Pattern Download!

Fastening Off... 

The Useful Half-Treble

I am inspired to investigate some Half-Treble variations. If you use American terminology you will of course know that I am referring to Half-Double crochet stitches.

Garments often use Half-Treble stitches due to their half way size. They crochet up more quickly than double crochet (SC) but still create a warm garment. This year I made two LillaBjorn garments which both use the same unusual stitch. It's used in both the Fjell Cardigan and Huldra Sweater. These are my versions.

The plain stitch on both these garments is just Half Treble, but the secret is the stitches are made between the stitches in the row below, under all three loops. Why? Because the stitches on front and back look very similar. That gives you the ability to work in a continuous spiral or to turn the work at the end of each row, as required. In the swatch below I've worked in rows.

In my next offering I've worked the Half Trebles into the back loop. It gives a very light rib to the fabric.

If you want to produce a deeper rib try working into that third loop instead. This third loop is sometimes called the back bump.

Perhaps you like that row of fake chain stitches but you want a thinner fabric. Well in that case only work the Back Bump Half Treble stitches every even numbered row. Work standard Half Treble stitches of every odd row.

A lighter weight, narrower striped variation of this is to work Half Treble on the odd rows and Back Bump Double Crochet (SC-USA) on the even rows.

Let's go back to those two top loops. I love the texture of my next sample. It is achieved simply by working into alternate back loop, front loop along the row.

That extra loop, which is unique to the Half Treble, is really magic isn't it? Think of a Puff stitch. They are usually made up of three or more Half Treble stitches. But what happens if we use just two or Half Treble 2 together in each stitch?

And finally!! Try working that Half Treble cluster over the next two stitches. The instructions might read; Chain2, *Htr2tog in same stitch and next st,repeat from* up to and including last stitch, single Htr in same stitch.

If you've enjoyed these diversions you might want to revisit the post I wrote about the non standard Slanting Half Treble stitch, there are also Linked stitches and Herringbone stitches. If (for some insane reason) you are not won over by the Useful Half Treble you might also remember that I wrote two posts about the Humble Double crochet, you'll find them Here and Here!

As a Post Script, I've been getting behind with my life (!) so from now on I will be posting once a month, but hopefully bringing you more patterns.

So Fastening off for now...

Welly Socks

Now that the Autumn rains have come flooding in this pattern is well overdue! You could knock a pair out for yourself in a weekend, but I think they would also make a great Xmas present for the men in your life.

From September to May I seem to live in Wellies and I've found that these socks have a really practical purpose. Rather than slopping around in my boots these liners help my Wellingtons fit more snugly. Rubber can get very cold in winter but my feet now stay warm. I used to hate the way my trousers ballooned around the top of my boots but now they stay neatly tucked in.

I was intending to sell this pattern in my Etsy shop but I realised that it fits so perfectly into my blog. Not only am I encouraging you to expand your crochet skills but I've given you lots of information to customise your work. Because I was going to sell the pattern it's much longer than you've come to expect from me. I just want to make sure you have all the information you need. If you're printing it off you may not need every page.

I can never make a pattern exactly as it's written, so I don't expect you to either! Although I've only given you three sizes I've made sure you can easily adjust the sizing. There is also a clear diagram giving you as much information as possible.

I've used an unusual linking stitch for the body of the sock. There are step by step photos showing you exactly how to make it. It produces a very stretchy, yet sturdy fabric. More importantly the inside of the sock is smooth and comfortable against the skin. The cuff is made with front and back post crochet rib. Of course there are links to the tutorials on this blog!

I chose to use Scheepjes River Washed, a cotton-acrylic yarn which is sport weight. Use any light weight DK or sport weight yarn that takes your fancy. As I've just written a post entitled Plastic Free Vegan Yarn I should encourage you to try a linen yarn. The prototype socks that I've been wearing were indeed made with linen and it's great for wicking away moisture.

Here's me and Shadow putting my linen socks to good use! (It's really an excuse to show you my gorgeous little boy. This is just after we'd rescued him in spring. He's put on alot more weight and hair since and is now even more adorable!)

Any how! If you fancy giving the pattern a go click here for the free PDF download.

Fastening off

Plastic Free Vegan Yarn.

I have become increasingly concerned about the amount of plastic I've been having to throw away. I don't litter so all that plastic that's getting into the sea, that's not down to me, right? 

Wrong! It turns out that some of the plastics I'd been dutifully washing, drying and recycling were being sent to other countries, from where it was finding it's way into the environment. Then I heard that every time I wash my clothes I'm washing small plastic fibres away with the water. There is even plastic in the air that I'm breathing.
Why is that scary? It has been calculated that only 9% of all plastic ever produced has been recycled. It can take a thousand years for plastic to decompose.
So I've been doing my best to reduce the amount of plastic I use. It's not easy and its very frustrating. As with all environmental issues there are no easy solutions. My hobby is an example.

I don't often use wool. Besides any of the emotive issues that might immediately leap to mind there are many environmental reasons why wool is a really bad idea! (Wool also brings me out in a rash!) Wool is undoubtedly an amazing material. It has big shoes to fill. So when you're looking for an alternative it really isn't easy. My favourite yarns are all cotton acrylic. The acrylic fibre helps to soften and lighten the cotton. It also helps to lock the stitches together. Unfortunately acrylic, nylon and polyester are all petro-chemical plastics.
So I did a search for plastic free vegan yarn. It was really really really frustrating! Eventually I found out an awful lot about plant based yarns. But I was left with one big question, what are they like to use?

Here is my mini guide to plastic free vegan yarn. I've got my hands on some yarns to play with. So that we can compare them I've made a swatch of each using my version of Herringbone Half Treble Stitch.

Cotton,
 We're all familiar with cotton. It's a heavy yarn. It uses a lot of land and water to produce it and often a lot of fertiliser. So look for organic and recycled yarn for the greenest credentials and of course anything which is unbleached and undyed. The yarn shown is Scheepjes new organic cotton.

Mercerised Cotton, 
Cotton finished with a caustic alkali process which improves the dye uptake and yarn strength, reducing shrinkage and adding a lustre. Unfortunately not high on the sustainability scale!

Linen,
Made from the flax plant it requires quite a lot of processing. The short rough fibres are dry spun, whilst the long smooth fibres are wet spun. I've read that it improves with washing.

My sample is actually a cotton linen mix, it's a little rough to the touch. I can't tell you the yardage but I can tell you it's 14WPI. From experience I'd call it Aran or Worsted weight as I used it to make a jacket. (If you don't know what a WPI is this post may help.)

Hemp, 
A sustainable product with long fibres. 

For this sample think garden string. My sample is 50g, 42m. 10WPI. You could use it for trivets, baskets, mats or macrame.

I was a bit disappointed with this yarn so I just had to splash out on a couple more samples.
 
Now that's more like it! I ordered a fingering weight dyed yarn and a DK natural yarn from The House of Hemp, they recommend washing the natural, undyed yarn before use to remove the starch used during spinning. Jane generously popped in a few extra samples to play with.
 
For the fingering 50g is 170m. 20WPI. For the DK 50g is 85m. 16WPI. The long fibres impart a lusterous sheen. To start with my swatches feel stiff, but after washing (as recommended) they both soften.The fingering weight particularly transforms and calls out for a garment pattern. The DK has great stitch definition, but might be more suited to for a throw, wrap or jacket. These are going on my must have list.

 Pineapple,

For this sample think heavy string in texture. 100g is 44m. 7WPI. To be honest I'm at a loss what use to put this to. It would make a good doormat except for the fact that it's far too expensive. It's too stiff to even use with my lucet.

Nettle, sometimes called Ramie.

I really don't know what you'd do with this either. It's incredible strong and fine but rough to the touch. 100g is 251m. 20WPI. When I started to make my sample it reminded me of Hessian, also known as Burlap.

 Banana, sometimes called Abaca.

 I ordered the 'Rainbow Road' (left) but Sprout also popped a free sample of 'Opal' (right) in my package which is quite different. So I thought we should try them both. 50g is 32m. 7-11WPI. These samples are too thick and heavy for clothing but you will find Banana in lighter weights. These are very similar to recycled Sari silk but not as coarse.

Seaweed,

I love this beautiful soft cotton like yarn. 100g is 119m. 11WPI. At this weight it would be great for rugs or baskets but I'd like to try it in a fingering weight. I'm going to be trying this with my lucet.

Bamboo, 

Having used bamboo once before I found it to be quite heavy so this time I chose 4ply, 50g is 200m. 19WPI.

It's soft, silky, slippery and splits easily. OK, that doesn't make it sound too good but I really love this! It would make a very comforting garment. It has a stretchy, fluid quality which I think would make great socks. I'm definitely going to find an excuse to use this again.

Soya, 
It's apparently made from a by product of tofu production.

Sadly this Sirdar yarn is now discontinued. 50g 105m. 14WPI. This particular yarn is wonderfully soft to the touch but has a light twist, so it has a tendency to split. (If you're not sure what I mean by twist then try this post.)

Both the soya and bamboo have very similar qualities to rayon.

Viscose, Rayon,
These are generalised terms for a product made from cellulose fibres. The down side is that they require a lot of chemical processing. There are many more specific types of viscose. You will often find them in a mix with other fibres such as wool and silk.
This sample is a 4ply (fingering) cotton viscose mix, the sparkly glints are the viscose!

These are the types I've read about.

Lyocell, Tencel, Modal, Woocoa-made from coconut and hemp fibres, Cupro-made from waste cotton, Seacell-made from seaweed.

Nullarbor, or nanollose is a new product that I'd really like to find. The name comes from the words nullus arbor, meaning 'no trees'. It could well be our greenest choice as it's made from microbial fungi.

I went to Homemadebysprout, YarnYarn and The House of Hemp for my yarns. Plus a few supplied by my magpie-eyed Mother-in-law from the charity shop. (Thanks Jan!) Right now you'll probably only get cotton, linen and bamboo from the large yarn companies. But please don't be despondent. If we create a demand they will make it! I've always believed a single person can make a difference. So chin up!

If you can offer up any suggestions, favourite products or suppliers please shout up in the comments below.

Fastening off...

What are wraps per inch and how do I measure them?

WPI is one of those mysterious abbreviations that yarnies toss about to the bamboozlement of the rest of us! In fact it's simply a way of categorising the weight of a yarn.

I don't know how the rest of the world gets on. If you're English it can be very confusing I was taught 4ply and Double Knitting. That left me wondering what on earth Lace weight and Fingering was. Then there are crochet thread weights 3, 5, and 8; as well as 10,20,30 etc. So compared to that WPI starts to seem really sensible.

There is always a catch! Your WPI will depend on how much tension you use. The way you calculate wraps per inch is merely to wrap it around something and count the number of wraps in an inch! The width (and length) of a piece of yarn depends on how much tension is put on the threads. It really is a case of 'how longs a piece of string?!!

If you search for WPI gauge tools, I'm sure you'll find plenty but all you really need is a ruler. The best way to work out your WPI is to lay the threads over the ruler or lightly wrap it.
Don't just wrap an inch as any variations in the thickness and the wrapping process will effect your count. So wrap a number of inches laying the strands snugly next to each other.

If it's a very fine yarn you will only need to wrap a couple of inches, but if it's very chunky you'll need to choose a much larger distance.
Count the strands and divide by the number of inches you've wrapped.
So I've got my count, what now? 
Well now you can identify the yarn weight. Try using the Craft Yarn Council chart that you'll find here. If your yarn has lost it's label you now stand a better chance of identifying it! Perhaps you are thinking of combining two different yarns together in the same project, or are using up oddments. You can now ensure that all your yarns are a similar size.

This yarn is from a charity shop. All the label tells me is the name of the yarn and who made it. I can find very little information about it on line. But knowing it has 5WPI I can search for patterns using Super Bulky yarn. That will keep me out of trouble for hours!

Fastening off...